Because of their exceedingly high water temperatures as well as the heavy use they get, spas tend to require frequent maintenance to keep them clean. The best tools for keeping a spa clean are basically the same as those used to clean swimming pools—just on a smaller scale.
Leaf skimmer. As in a pool, this long- handled net is necessary for removing large pieces of floating debris.
Vacuum. A spa vacuum can be powered in several ways. If your spa is not connected to the circulation system of an in-ground pool, a good solution is a vacuum that’s powered by a jet of water from a garden hose.
Spa wand. A more streamlined alternative to a vacuum, a spa wand also collects debris through suction. It may be powered either by pumping or turning the handle or by a rechargeable battery.
Bucket and soft sponge. These two low-tech tools are a must for cleaning interior spa walls.
Skimming and vacuuming. Since a spa is so small, even a minimal amount of debris can lower the efficiency of the circulation system. Bring out the skimmer each time you use your spa, and either vacuum or use a spa wand twice a week to remove debris that has settled to the bottom.
Cleaning out the baskets. Debris-free baskets are essential to the proper operation of the circulation system. Clean the skimmers twice a week by removing leaves and anything else obstructing the water flow. With in-ground spas, the strainer baskets are hidden in the surrounding deck; for portable spas, the baskets are near the pump.
Cleaning the inner surface. Because total dissolved solids build up quickly, spa water needs to be drained fairly often. Emptying the spa provides an opportunity for cleaning the inner surfaces. Brush the spa interior to eliminate calcium scales and any algae buildup. A plaster-lined concrete spa can withstand stiff brushing, but fiberglass and acrylic spas are more delicate.
To clean tile, don’t use anything very abrasive or stiff that could scratch the tile or damage the grout. A pumice stone works well, removing scale like a giant eraser. A putty knife is also great for scraping off especially heavy scale. Another alternative is to dissolve the scale with a 50/50 mix of water and muriatic acid. (Muriatic acid is extremely corrosive, and its vapors can be toxic if inhaled, so be sure to protect your eyes and hands and work in a well-ventilated area when making the mixture.) Apply the solution with a nylon brush and scrub. Rinse well when you’re finished.
No single water filter technology will eliminate all types of contaminants, but some treatment devices use more than one method to rid water of nearly all contaminants. Once you’ve identified your specific problem, you can choose a water-treatment solution that is right for it.
Reverse-osmosis (RO) filters. For water with multiple contaminants, a reverse-osmosis filter is often the best solution. It will remove inorganic chemicals such as salts, metals (including lead), minerals, nitrates, asbestos, and, because most models include carbon pre-filters and post-filters, catch organic chemicals such as pesticides, as well as trihalomethanes (THMs) and radon. Not all remove chlorine, so if this claim is made, request proof. The carbon post-filter is used to improve the water’s aesthetic properties. Pre- and post-filter cartridges should be replaced annually.
Most RO systems mount beneath the sink and connect directly to the plumbing. A small tank stores clean water until needed, and tainted water drains out through a line connected to the sink trap. With most, drinking water flows through a special, separate sink-top spout or may be routed to an ice maker or water cooler.
Conventional RO filters waste about 3 gallons for every gallon of pure water they produce; some have an automatic valve that prevents excessive waste. RO filters generally cost from $400 to $600.
Distillers. Another device that will remove almost everything from water is a distiller. Distillers electrically heat water until it turns into steam; the steam then condenses and turns back into water in a separate chamber, leaving behind 99 percent of the health- and aesthetic-related pollutants.
Countertop models must be filled manually, use a lot of electricity, and may take several hours to produce 1 gallon of water, but they are relatively inexpensive at from $100 to $300.
Activated carbon (AC) filters. If your water tastes, smells, or looks bad, a filter containing activated carbon (AC) will probably make it much more palatable. Many AC filters also remove chlorine, pesticides, herbicides, radon, THMs, and some inorganic chemicals, but not all carbon filters effectively reduce lead content. If you’re concerned about lead, be sure the unit you’re considering is certified for lead removal. Solid-block and precoat absorption filters trap lead.
Though a carbon filter will remove mercury, don’t count on a conventional one to remove all metals, salts, nitrates and nitrites, and organisms. In fact, be aware that a carbon filter will accumulate the contaminants it cleans from water, and the resulting bacteria may even breed in it, so it’s very important to replace filter cartridges religiously, according to the manufacturer’ s recommendations.
Effectiveness of a particular carbon unit is directly related to the amount of activated carbon it contains. Beneath-the-counter systems with dual filters typically cost from $100 to $200. The $30 faucet-end models are only marginally effective. Whole-house point-of-entry (POE) systems, recommended where a contaminant such as radon poses a threat to the entire house, cost $500 or more.
Ultraviolet (UV) disinfection devices may kill bacteria and viruses, and improve the taste and odor of water, but they are not effective against chemical pollutants and may not work against cysts and spores. In some carbon filter units, ultraviolet is used to kill bacteria.
The American Society of Heating, Refrigerating, and Air Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) has generated the following list of actions homeowners can take to achieve good indoor air quality:
1) Fossil fuel–fired water heaters and furnaces should use sealed combustion or be power- vented. When natural-draft appliances are used, they should be properly vented and be outside the occupiable space when possible.
2) Vent bathrooms, kitchens, toilets, and laundry rooms directly outdoors. Use energy-efficient and quiet fans.
3) Avoid locating furnaces, air conditioners, and ductwork in garages or other spaces where they could draw contaminants into the house. Install an automatic door closer on any door from the house to the garage. To reduce airborne contaminant transport, apply weatherstripping around door edges. If ducts must pass through a garage or other potentially polluted space, seal the ducts well to avoid entrainment of polluted air.
4) Properly vent fireplaces, wood stoves, and other hearth products; use tight doors and outdoor air intakes for these products when possible.
5) Put a particle filter or air cleaner in your air-handling system to keep dirt out of the air and off your ductwork and heating and cooling components. Regularly maintain it or replace it as needed.
6) Vent clothes dryers and central vacuum cleaners directly outdoors.
7) Store volatile compounds such as paints, solvents, cleaners, and pesticides out of the occupiable space and away from ventilation air intakes.
8) Minimize or avoid altogether unvented combustion sources such as candles, cigarettes, indoor barbecues, decorative combustion appliances, and vent-free heaters.
9) Distribute a minimum amount of outdoor air as recommended by ASHRAE 62.2 throughout the home, using whole-house mechanical ventilation.
10) Provide operable windows or other mechanical ventilation to every space to accommodate such events as the use of home cleaning products and hobby activities.
A wallcovering’s material content determines its durability, cleanability, cost, and ease of installation and removal. Before purchasing any wallpaper, ask about these qualities, as well as about the manufacturer’s guarantees.
Vinyl wallpaper
The most popular wallcoverings are made of a continuous, flexible vinyl film applied to a backing. They are durable, strong, and easy to maintain. Backings may be fabric or paper.
Fabric-backed vinyl, the sturdiest wallpaper, is washable (often scrubbable), moisture resistant, and usually strippable (meaning it can be removed from the wall by hand without leaving any residue). Fabric-backed vinyl usually comes unpasted.
Paper-backed vinyl is lightweight, so it often comes prepasted. Paper-backed expanded vinyl produces a 3D effect and is especially suited to walls that aren’t perfectly smooth. It comes in styles that mimic the look of rough plaster, granite, textured paint, or grass cloth.
Vinyl-coated paper is paper coated with a vinyl layer so thin it looks like paper. It lends a finished look to a wall but is best for light-use areas because it stains and tears more easily than papers that have greater vinyl content.
Textiles
These wallcoverings come in many colors and textures, in styles ranging from very casual to formally elegant. They’re usually made of natural fibers such as cotton or linen, or of polyester bonded to a paper backing.
A traditional favorite is grass cloth, which can be hung horizontally, vertically, or in a combination of the two. Hemp, similar to grass cloth but with thinner fibers, is easier to install.
Hand-screened paper
This vividly colorful paper is more expensive than most machine-printed wallpapers because each color is applied with a separate handmade and hand-placed silk screen. Some newer machine-printed papers have the look of hand-screened ones and are less expensive.
Hanging these types of papers can be tricky. Patterns may match less evenly than many other wallcoverings, and edges often need to be trimmed and double-cut at seams. Also, because water-soluble dyes are often used in their manufacture, great care must be taken to ensure that the printed side is kept free of paste and water.
Solid paper
Paper wallcoverings with no vinyl content tear easily and should only be considered for extremely light-use areas.
Foils & flocks
Foils and flocks (paper resembling damask or cut velvet) can brighten up any small, dark space. They require an absolutely smooth wall surface and can wrinkle easily.
By : HomeTips.com
The French are known for their ability to combine comfort with an unerring sense of style, and Country French decorating is much the same.
Whether a country estate or a second home (called a pied-à-terre), a house in this style might feature mellow oak flooring, hand-painted pottery, iron chandeliers, oversize furniture, vintage linens, and gilded mirrors—all in one room.
Light or bright colors coexist happily with dark wood, and an antique coverlet might be draped on the back of a newly purchased chair.
The key is quality: Choose timeless furnishings with excellent design, and then throw in some quirky favorites, though age isn't nearly as important as beauty, utility, and charm.
• Walls and ceilings. Thickly plastered walls are traditional, but today's homes can replicate that look with faux-finish textures. Paint walls a rich shade of cream, or move toward sunflower gold, terra cotta, grass green, or vibrant blue shades for the look of the Provence region in southern France.
• Floors. Choose natural materials such as oak planks, flagstone, or handmade tile for the most authentic appearance. If wall-to-wall carpeting is already down and it is prohibitive to remove it, then top it with a hooked, hand-loomed, or needlepoint area rug that echoes colors in the room.
• Surfaces. Go for a combination of textures: Pair rough with smooth or aged wood with polished metal. Natural materials (or look-alikes) are preferable. For kitchen countertops, honed marble and limestone are traditional.
• Furniture. Lines are similar to the fancier, even gilded, furniture in the style of Louis XV or Louis XVI. For a more casual and comfortable appearance, the wood is stained or painted and scuffed to look as though it has been passed down for generations. Look for upholstered sofas and armchairs with exposed-wood legs and arms, chests and storage cupboards with curving lines and raised-panel doors, and old farm tables with plank tops.
• Fabrics. Think cotton, linen, velvet, and wool—natural fabrics that feel good to the touch. Patterns include checks; small, geometric motifs; and traditional toile-de-Jouy scenic designs, often printed in only one color against a contrasting background. Include vintage linens, laces, or other antique fabrics on a few pillows.
• Accessories. Display an assortment of handmade pottery glazed in rich colors, as well as assorted copper and the painted-tin known as toleware. Paintings of rural landscapes, farm animals, and seascapes—either realistic or impressionistic—add an authentic touch.
• Details. Each chair should have an ottoman or footstool; this offers wordless permission for guests to get comfortable and put up their feet. Drape a colorful square tablecloth diagonally across the dining table, and center it with flowers loosely arranged in a glass or pottery pitcher.
There are three main types of room air conditioners: window units, through-the-wall units, and portable models. Following is a closer look at each.
Window units are by far the most popular. Models can be installed in most single- or double-hung windows and typically come with accordion panels that allow for a secure fit. Some also fit in sliding windows
Installing a window unit is an easy DIY project. Make sure you measure the inside window dimensions before you shop. Directions and hardware should be included.
Through-the-wall units require opening a hole in an exterior wall, a job that is considerably more involved than installing a window unit. On the plus side, they don’t take up window space, and they allow for a more airtight and secure fit.
Most window models can be installed as through-the-wall units—you just add a frame to support the unit. Small units can be installed by handy do-it-yourselfers. Large through-the-wall units may require professional installation.
Portable air conditioners, self-contained, freestanding units, are the new kids on the block. Most have casters, so they can be wheeled into the room or rooms that need to be cooled. They come with a large, room wall air conditioner unilflexible hose that is attached to a window for exhausting hot air, much like a clothes dryer is vented. Though they tend to cost more than window and through-the-wall units, they are practical because of their portability and can be taken with you when you move.
Air conditioners remove water from the air as they cool it, which means that most portable units have reservoirs that need to be periodically emptied, though some also come with optional hookups for a drainage hose. Some new models evaporate much of the moisture and exhaust it, greatly reducing the frequency of need to empty a container.
By : Hometips.com
The fibers used for a carpet's face yarn dramatically affect its appearance and performance. Here is a look at the carpet fibers used today:
Nylon
Two-thirds of carpet fibers are nylon, a material that offers excellent durability and is wear-, soil-, and mildew-resistant. Nylon fibers are resilient, survive the crushing weight of furniture, and hold up well in heavily trafficked areas. Nylon is available in brilliant colors, and solution-dyed varieties are colorfast. Nylon carpets tend to cost from about $8 to $25 per square yard. At rock-bottom, they run as low as $5; at the high end you can pay $70 per square yard or more.
Olefin
Also known as polypropylene, olefin fibers represent about 30% of the carpet market. Although olefin began as an outdoor carpet fiber thanks to its resistance to moisture and mildew, new advances in its look and feel have made it popular for the house. It is easy to clean, strong, and resists stains, wear, and static electricity.
Olefin fibers are used primarily in multi-level loops, such as berbers, and in low-profile commercial cut piles. Color is added before the material is turned into fiber, making olefin colorfast. Some carpet tiles made of olefin are felt-like in texture; for these, polypropylene fibers are needle-punched into a mesh core. Olefin carpet is comparable in price to nylon; although the fiber is less expensive, more processes are involved in its manufacture.
Polyester
If you like a luxurious, soft, thick-cut pile, polyester may be your best bet. Polyester fibers, known for their soft "hand," have plenty of body, resist wear, and offer strong color and luster retention. Unfortunately, they are not as durable as nylon and olefin. Currently, many polyester carpets are made from recycled PET (polyester) from plastic soda bottles and containers. Polyester carpets run about $1 less per square yard than comparable nylon products.
Acrylic
Although you won't likely find a 100% acrylic carpet, these fibers are blended with other fibers such as wool because they approximate the look and feel of natural wool but are less expensive. Acrylic fibers are resistant to moisture, mildew, and fading.
Wool
The most luxurious fiber is natural wool. It is soft, durable, offers generous bulk, and comes in many colors. From an ecological viewpoint, it is a particularly responsible choice because it comes from a sustainable resource. Unfortunately, wool is also considerably more expensive than synthetics. For wool, you're likely to pay from $40 to $100 per square yard—or more.
t's often easy to replace an inexpensive lockset with one that is a similar type. If possible, take the old lockset with you when you're buying a new one, or bring the following information:
* Type of lock--cylindrical, tubular, or rim
* Diameter of the cylinder and latch holes or the size of the rim
* Distance from the edge of the door to the center of the doorknob
* Thickness of the door
* Direction the door opens--inward or outward
Replacing a lockset is an easy job. Remove the knob by releasing the shank button with a small screwdriver as shown at below left. Then remove the mounting plate (see below right). Unscrew and remove the latch assembly. Then just reverse the process to reassemble with a new lockset.
A relatively easy repair for a door that doesn't lock securely enough is to install a new deadbolt. To do this, you drill two new holes in the door--one in the face for the lock's body and one in the edge to accommodate the bolt.
Deadbolts are packaged with templates that show the exact placement of holes to ensure a perfect fit.
Single-piece molded fiberglass, synthetic marble, or laminate showers are relatively inexpensive, quick and simple to install, easy to clean, and watertight. Most prefabricated shower stalls are formed with benches, integral shelves, and grab bars. Shapes include square, rectangular, and corner configurations.
One-piece showers are common in new construction because they are very quick to install and don’t have seams that could leak in the future. Unfortunately, these generally don’t work in a remodel unless one or more walls are being removed because they are too large to fit through a doorway.
For most remodels, prefabricated showers with wall panels that are assembled on site work better. With these, wall panels fit over a molded shower base and are attached to a waterproofed wall.
With the exception of one-piece showers, all showers begin with a base, sometimes called a receptor, or a "pan," which can be purchased ready-made or built from scratch. Construction demands skill because the pan must be waterproofed and sloped precisely to the drain, which must be set at the right height for perfect drainage. Prefabricated bases—in molded plastic, cast polymer, solid-surface composite, or poured masonry—come in various sizes and shapes and can be used with wall panels or custom surrounds. For more about this, see Custom Shower Planning & Buying Guide.
If you’re remodeling, be sure to select a prefabricated shower pan that has a drain opening that matches the existing location of your drainpipe.
from : Hometips.com
The term "high performance" is usually reserved for sports cars and Grateful Dead concerts, but homes can also have a high-performance side, and like a race car, it all revolves around results.
Most homes in this category are built from the ground up, which allows for system-engineered design and quality-controlled construction.
The key to a high-performance home is that all the major systems within the home work together to create a comfortable and healthy living environment that operates on an elevated level of energy efficiency and building durability
One aspect of this is that the HVAC system is sized specifically for the home and that register supply and return vents are placed in a room to most effectively heat and cool that space.
Every aspect of the home's energy use is taken into account. It's a pretty heady goal, but with today's advances in building science, design, and technology, high-performance homes are being built at a rapid rate across the country.
Common elements of a high-performance home include:
* An airtight, moisture-managed, and well-insulated building
* Manifold plumbing systems
* Geo-thermal heat pumps
* Programmable thermostats
* Climate control "zones" throughout the house
* Performance testing at each stage of the building process
Unfortunately, turning your existing home into a super-charged high-performance home can be difficult. Imagine trying to get a 1977 Chevy Nova up to the performance specs of a 2007 Corvette Z06. It may be possible, but it's not really practical. However, there are plenty of lessons to be learned from high-performance homes like performing a blower-door test to uncover major air leaks in the building envelope or making sure your ducts are cleaned and sealed to improve the HVAC system performance.
If you are looking to really conserve energy, a high-performance home may be your ticket, but low power bills are only one aspect of green.
