My Home Tips and Trick

Anatomy of a Garage

2009-04-19T21:35:00.001+07:00

Because garages are typically much larger than sheds, building permits are usually required and the structure must be built to code. In many ways, garage construction is very similar to that of a house.

The foundation for the garage is usually some form of slab. Walls are typically built in sections and raised one at a time. They are braced temporarily upright and secured to the foundation with a mudsill that's attached with concrete anchors.

Rough openings are placed wherever doors or windows are to be installed; headers at the top replace the support that would have been provided by the wall studs.

Ceiling joists span the walls and hold them together; rafters are attached to ceiling joists and the ridge board to form the roof. The rafters are covered with sheathing, roofing felt, and shingles.

Windows and doors are installed, and exterior sheathing, siding, or shingles are added, along with the exterior trim to complete the garage.

By:HomeTips.com

How a Home Alarm System Works

2009-04-16T14:13:00.001+07:00

You want your family and your property protected from any harm, be it a home intrusion or fire. Fortunately, home protection has become simpler yet more sophisticated.

House alarm systems are about peace of mind, ensuring the safety of your family and your property while dissuading potential intruders. Unfortunately, most people only consider a house alarm system when they’ve just been robbed.

The most common type of home protection is the house alarm. Security alarms have sensors that are connected to a control unit via either a high-voltage hardwire or narrowband radio-frequency signal, which interacts with a response device. The most common types of security sensors indicate the opening of a door or window or detect passive smoke. Most infrared sensors are for indoor use only. Outside sensors are available but are costlier and are not false alarm–proof.

If there is an unauthorized entry, an active alarm system sends a signal to a central monitoring station, which monitors systems every minute of every day. If necessary, the central monitoring station alerts local police to send an officer to your home.

Quality alarm systems combine audible and silent alarms triggered by sensors placed throughout the home, not just on doors and windows. It is recommended to use a combination of both hardwired and wireless sensor technologies for fewer false alarms. Some alarm companies do not offer the wireless option, even though it is the easier of the two types to install.

Entry-level wired systems utilize a “star network” topology where the panel is placed centrally and all devices “home run” their wires back to the panel. Installation of a hardwired system is obviously much cheaper if wiring already exists in the home.

If no pre-wiring exists, wireless is a less costly option because installers do not have to drill any holes, lift any carpets, nor string any wires throughout the house. Wireless systems, however, do require frequent changes of lithium batteries, and the system is less effective without this diligence. One or two wireless repeaters may be required to get the signal reliably back to the alarm panel. Wireless systems are also easier to expand outdoors because they do not require any ditches to be dug.

The main control panel for an alarm system is usually hidden in a closet or garage because hiding the “main brains“ lowers the risk of a burglar disabling the system. A keypad is placed inside the house, usually by the front door, where residents can easily arm or disarm the system as they come and go. Another keypad placed by the bedrooms allows for convenient arming of the system at night.

By : HomeTips.com

Child Safety Around Swimming Pools & Spas

2009-04-16T14:11:00.000+07:00

When summer rolls around, a swimming pool often becomes the focus of family activities. Unfortunately, most children lack a healthy respect for the water's potential danger, and curiosity draws them near. In states where pools are numerous, there are even more fatalities to young children from drowning than from traffic accidents.

For this reason, it makes sense to teach children how to swim as soon as is possible. Do not rely on baby's swimming lessons, though.

Throughout childhood, whether or not they can swim, children should be watched at the pool by an adult capable of rescuing them'one adult per each nonswimmer.

Safeguarding the pool area. Kids, by nature, try to foil whatever barriers adults set up. For safety's sake around a pool, create several backups to ensure that neither your child nor neighborhood kids can gain access to your pool.

Among your choices are fences and gates (a building code requirement in many communities), a pool cover, and an alarm that gives a last-minute warning.

Pool covers. Designed to keep kids out, pool covers are probably the surest barrier if designed and used correctly. A good pool cover must be able to support an adult's weight.

To keep children out of the water reliably, the pool cover should attach securely in place. If rainwater collects, pump or drain the water away immediately; just a few inches of water in a sagging pool cover can endanger a small child.

When people are swimming in the pool, remove the cover completely to eliminate the chance someone could become trapped under it. And whenever adults are not at poolside, lock the cover in place.

Fences. A standard cover may not fit a pool that is very large or irregularly shaped. Even with a cover, a child-safe pool should be fenced to keep it securely off limits between supervised swims. Keep furniture and any similar objects that could be used for climbing away from the fence.

A self-closing, self-latching gate assures that the gate won't be accidentally left open. A lockable gate provides extra security.

Pool fences are often regulated, sometimes stringently, by building codes. Usually, the fence must be 5 to 6 feet high, with slats or uprights spaced no wider than 4 inches. If a side of the house or other building serves as a portion of the pool area fence, it should have no doors or windows. Fencing must also stand far enough from the pool's edge to allow safe passage'at least 3 feet. Check with your local building department for other requirements.

Alarms. One type of pool alarm screeches when a heavy object, such as a person, falls into the water (the wave that results sets off the alarm). But you would have to be relatively close in order for the alarm to provide a safe warning. And the alarm needs regular testing. Also, the sensitive mechanism may give you heart-
wrenching false alarms.

Another type of alarm system for pools shoots a light beam around the water's perimeter (the same method is used at the entrance to some stores). The sound activates if the beam is broken.

Again, you must be close enough to hear the alarm, but this kind gives you a warning before your child plunges into the water. False alarms can be a nuisance.

Pool equipment. Locate the pool heater, filter, and other equipment behind sturdy fencing or walls at least 5 feet high. Keep pool chemicals far from children's reach, preferably locked away.

Pool area upkeep. Have the pool deck repaired promptly if damaged. If it's especially slippery, coat it with a nonslip surfacing material. Move away steps to an above-ground pool when the pool is not in use.

Use only unbreakable plates and glasses at poolside, never glass. Keep all toys'particularly balls'away from the area.

Protect all electrical outlets and equipment, as well as circuits for support equipment, with ground fault circuit interrupters. Test your GFCls monthly. Inspect electrical equipment frequently and do not use the pool until any needed repairs are made. Do not allow electrical appliances inside the fenced pool area.

Keep a telephone near the pool so you don't have to go indoors to answer a call. Keep emergency numbers posted on the telephone.

TIP: Inflatable rings and other similar water toys should not be considered reliable life preservers.

Safe Pool Use

When small children are in the pool area, watch them continuously; never leave, even for a minute. Mark the pool's deep end with a rope supported by floats and don't allow nonswimmers or young beginning swimmers to go beyond the rope.

Another sound safety measure is to insist that young nonswimmers wear life preservers, also called personal flotation devices, or PFDs, while in the pool area. When buying a PFD, look for "USCG (U.S. Coast Guard) approved" on the label. If there are several children or you're having a party, protect all the children'including those who can swim'with a PFD even while you're standing nearby.

Post pool rules near the pool (see below). Keep a first-aid kit handy as well as life-saving equipment'life ring with 3/16-inch rope and a 10-foot rescue (shepherd's) hook. Learn lifesaving and cardio-pulmonary resuscitation (CPR) from a local hospital, American Red Cross chapter, or other community resource.

Make sure that the pool's water has been correctly treated so that it's clean but not irritating from concentrated chlorine. Never use the pool when an automatic pool cleaner is operating because its hoses can entangle a young swimmer.

Spa & Hot Tub Safety

The hot, bubbly fun of a spa can delight children as much as it does their parents, and a family soak is a cozy experience.

But, besides the possibility of drowning, the water in a hot tub or spa poses another danger to young children. Even at a temperature moderate for adults, water can scald young, sensitive skin. For infants and young children, keep the water temperature no higher than 95' F. and the soaking time no longer than 10 minutes. Introduce the child slowly to the hot water to be sure there's no discomfort or fear.

Also keep in mind that the strong circulating action of the pump can quickly pull a child off balance, so your safest option is to turn off the pump while soaking with your child. Beware of some older spas, which have floor drains that create such strong suction that small children can be pulled underwater (see your dealer about replacing the drain). Maintain the spa's cleanliness as rigorously as you would the pool. A spa also needs the same protective fencing or sturdy locking cover.

Suggested Pool Rules

Listed below are a few rules that will help ensure the safety of young children in or near a swimming pool. But they also apply to anyone using a pool, no matter what the age or skill level.

* Nonswimmers must be accompanied in the water by an adult who can swim'one adult to each nonswimming child.

* Children may not enter the pool area without an adult who can swim.

* No one may ever swim alone.

* No running, pushing, or rough play is allowed in or near the pool.

* No diving is allowed unless the pool has an area designed for it.

* Glass and electrical appliances are not allowed in the pool area because of the risks of injury or electrocution.

* No one may swim if ill or injured; bacteria can contaminate water.

* No swimming is allowed during a thunderstorm because water attracts lightning.

* Night swimming is not recommended unless children are closely supervised by adult swimmers in a well-lit pool.

TIP: Make sure to post pool rules--as well as CPR instructions--where they are easily visible.

By : HomeTips.com

7 Tips for Painting Your House

2009-04-16T14:09:00.000+07:00

Have you been thinking about repainting your home’s exterior? Here are seven tips that will make your work easier, safer, and more likely to produce pride-inspiring results.

1) Evaluate doing it yourself
Painting is one of those jobs that requires only a moderate level of skill and a few basic tools. By doing the work yourself, you can usually save more than half the cost of the job. But should you do the work yourself? That depends on a number of factors, including your experience, fitness, available time, and the difficulty of working on your home’s exterior walls.

2) Buy quality paint
Choosing high-quality paint is critical to a long-lasting paint job and can make the work far easier. Not only will quality paint weather the years durably, but it is also easier to maintain, and it covers the walls more quickly and easily in the process. Just think about the effort and expense of painting your house—this should make it clear that you don’t want to have to do the job again in four or five years.

3) Repair and prepare
Even high-quality paint won’t guarantee a lasting paint job if you don’t prepare the surfaces properly. Start by repairing damaged siding. Peeling, blistering, wrinkling, and flaking paint must be removed from wood siding by scraping and sanding, ideally with a power sander. Be advised that this is difficult, tiring work, and you must do it carefully so as not to gouge the wood. Always wear a dust mask, gloves, and protective goggles.

4) Mask off
Avoid painting roofing and other surfaces by masking with plastic sheeting and 3-inch masking tape. Use dropcloths to protect walkways, shrubs, and other surfaces from dripping paint. You’ll be painting the siding first and then the trim; after the siding is painted, mask the siding around the trim. Be sure to remove the masking tape immediately after painting, before it forms a stubborn bond.

5) Paint surfaces from the top down
Begin with the gutters, fascia, and eaves and work your way down the main surfaces, painting in 3- to 4-foot-square sections. Use a high-quality 4-inch brush. If your home has lap siding, first draw the bristles along the bottom edges of three or four boards and then paint the surfaces in line with the boards. Regularly check for and correct drips and streaks; they are much more difficult to clean up after the paint dries.

6) Paint trim in the proper order
Use a 2-inch angled trim brush to paint trim, always working in line with the wood’s grain. With a window, begin with the muntins and then paint the stiles, rails, head casing, side casings, and the sill. Sometimes it’s easiest to paint a door on sawhorses, after removing it. Otherwise just paint it in place, over a dropcloth. Start with the inset panels, panel moldings and recesses, horizontal rails, and then vertical stiles and mullion. When painting along glass, don’t bother to mask it if you have a steady hand. Just let the paint lap onto the glass by about 1/16 inch and then remove the wet paint from the glass with a rag wrapped around the end of a putty knife. Use a razor blade to remove any residual paint after it dries.

7) Clean up properly
Use soap and water for latex paints or paint thinner for alkyd paints to thoroughly clean your brushes and gear right after painting. Don’t pour paint thinner or excess paint down the drain or onto the ground—this is a serious source of ground water pollution. Keep it in an old sealed paint can and dispose of it at a toxic waste collection site.

Cutting In With a Paintbrush

2009-04-12T20:08:00.000+07:00

Before you begin painting an entire wall or ceiling with a roller or a brush, cut in the edges with a 2- to 3-inch trim brush. (Use a foam brush for glaze.) If the wall and ceiling will be different colors, you can mask the edges of whichever surface you are not working on or use an edge guide to keep paint from straying.

If you are using flat or eggshell latex paint, you can cut in the entire room before painting the open spaces. For semigloss or gloss latex or for any alkyd paint, you will get better results if you cut in a small section and then fill it in before moving to the next area. Also, do not let the edge of one section dry before starting on another; this will leave you with a demarcation line.

If you are using the same paint for the ceiling and wall, you can paint several inches out from the ceiling-to-wall connection on both sides. If you are using different colors or types of paint, cut in and paint the ceiling first.

For a ceiling, cut in first where the ceiling meets the wall, working all the way around the room. Then cut in around any hanging fixtures.

For a wall, cut in first along the ceiling. Next, move along the vertical edges and above the baseboard, then around the door and window frames, and finally around any light fixtures, outlets, or other fixed items on the wall.

How the Home Plumbing System Works

2009-04-07T19:06:00.000+07:00

If your plumbing experience has been limited to turning a faucet on and off, you may be pleasantly surprised at the simplicity of the system behind that faucet.

Home plumbing is largely a network of pipes and the fittings that connect them, carrying water in and out of the house by two basic forces of nature: pressure and gravity. Water fixtures'sinks, tubs, showers and toilets'and such appliances as dishwashers and washing machines tap into this system, receiving fresh water from one set of pipes and discharging used water through another.

Here's a first look at the basic terms and concepts you'll need to know when evaluating, repairing, or extending your home's plumbing system.

The water cycle
Plumbing is closely tied to both weather and geography. Water that enters your home starts way up in the sky, falling to earth as rain or snow. It flows in a stream or river to a lake or manmade reservoir or percolates down into the water table'which is like a river or lake, only underground. The water then travels through a treatment plant, pumping station, and/or local water tower to a water main and meter or from a private well that taps into the local water table. Fresh water enters the house via a main cold water pipe and flows, under pressure, out of whatever faucet has been turned on.

Where does used water go? So-called 'gray water' and waste leave the house and head for the city sewer or a private septic system. This sewage moves by gravity'each point in the system is at a lower slope than the one preceding. From the city sewer, water goes to a treatment plant, which removes waste from water, or to a septic tank, which does the same thing. Water evaporates back ino the sky, where things start all over again.

Three plumbing systems
Now let's peek inside the house. There are really three separate but interdependent pipe systems: supply, drain-waste, and vent. (Drain-waste-vent systems are interconnected and therefore often referred to as the 'DWV system.')

The supply system carries pressurized water from a utility main or private well into your house and around to all the water-using fixtures and appliances. What drives this pressure? There's either an initial 'fall' (such as from a water tower) or a 'push' from a pumping station; displacement does the rest. Because the water is in a closed supply pipe system, it has nowhere to go but along the same path, pushed along by the water behind it. When you open a faucet or valve, water flows out; when you close it, the flow stops until the next time you open it.

The drain-waste system transports gray water and waste out of the house into a city sewer or septic tank outside the house perimeter. Tub and sink drains flow by gravity only; toilets use a combination of pressure (falling water) and gravity. If waste needs to flow uphill at any point, such as from a basement bathroom, an electric pump helps push it up.

The vent system carries away noxious sewer gasses. When a drainpipe is empty, sewer gasses rise up the vent pipe and out the roof. P- or S-shaped pipe bends, called traps, below each drain remain filled with just enough water to prevent sewer gasses from seeping out the drain into your home. The vent system also helps maintain atmospheric pressure in the drain system to help wastes flow downhill. It works on the same principle as the second hole on a gas can.

By : HomeTips.com

Room Air Conditioner Energy-Efficiency Ratings

2009-04-07T19:01:00.000+07:00

All new room air conditioners are required to carry an EER, or Energy Efficiency Rating, which ranges from 8 to 11.5. The ranking is important for consumers because air conditioners with higher EERs yield the most savings in monthly electric bills. The higher EER also helps the environment by reducing greenhouse emissions. Check the yellow Energy Guide label on new room air conditioners when you’re shopping. A rating of 10 or higher will produce the most in energy savings, though these models are likely to cost a little more.

Many of the energy-efficient features in room air conditioners also offer greater convenience and comfort:

Variable fan speeds. More speed settings give you greater control of air flow. The lower settings also help save money.

Digital temperature control. The ability to control temperature by degrees—instead of with HIGH or LOW settings—allows for more comfort and wastes less energy.

Programmable thermostat. You may want to pay a little more for an AC unit that lets you program desired settings for different times of the day and night.

Easy-to-access filters. Slide-out filters are easy to clean and remove dust and other allergens from the air. Regular maintenance will extend the service life of your air conditioner and help it operate at full efficiency.

Sleep setting/energy-saving setting. The unit operates at a very low setting, making the room more comfortable for sleeping and at the same time saving on energy costs.

Timer. Timers are a simpler and less costly alternative to programmable thermostats. Just set the time you want the AC to start or stop. Timers let you come home to a house that already is cool, without continuously running the air conditioner while you’re away.

How to Replace a Light Fixture

2009-04-06T20:17:00.001+07:00

The most common "repair" of a light fixture is complete replacement. And by the time a light fixture wears out to the point where it no longer works properly, it's usually time to update the look. Fortunately, replacement is easy, although a new fixture may have mounting hardware that does not match your existing hardware. If you have to install new mounting hardware and the fixture is heavy—a large chandelier, for example—be sure to mount the hardware to the ceiling joists, which can handle the weight. If there are more than two black and white wires for the wiring connection, label the wires with tape before detaching them from the old fixture.

To replace a fixture, first shut off the power to the circuit. Be aware that, although you've turned off the circuit and the switch doesn't operate the light, there may be live (hot) wires in the ceiling box. Don't touch any bare wires until you can test them with a circuit tester to make sure they're off.

Unscrew the bulb and then remove the nuts that hold the ceiling canopy or fixture in place. Carefully lower the canopy or fixture to expose the wires. Unscrew the wire nuts (without touching bare wire ends).

Place the two probes of a circuit tester on the white and black wires simultaneously to be sure they're off. Then lower the fixture away from the wires.

Install the new fixture according to the package directions--in most cases, you just strip about 1/2 inch of the protective insulation from the new wire ends, twist them together with the circuit wires (white to white and black to black), and finish by twisting on the wire nuts. Many fixtures also have a grounding screw that should receive a bare grounding wire.

By : HomeTips.com

Bamboo Flooring

2009-04-05T20:31:00.001+07:00

Bamboo flooring is a hard, stable, and reliable flooring material with a pleasingly exotic appearance. Bamboo flooring has several unique qualities. For one, it has exceptional pliability that allows it to sustain blunt impacts without denting or bending—in this attribute it surpasses most hardwood materials. In addition to its superior elasticity, bamboo is surprisingly hard. It has a Janka hardness rating of about 1800, which is considerably harder than that of white oak (1360) and hard maple (1450).

Because bamboo grows in tropical regions, it has an organic resistance to water. But it does expand and contract with changes in its moisture content, and it can stain. If you’re going to use bamboo in a bathroom or a kitchen, it may be wise to apply an extra coat of polyurethane or wax following installation to ensure a permanently flush and stain-free surface. Check with the flooring manufacturer and/or your installer for the right products to choose.

As with regular wood floors, bamboo flooring comes in solid and engineered tongue-and-groove strips and planks, which means there are bamboo options available for both plywood and concrete subfloors. Because of the thinness of the bamboo stalks, solid-bamboo flooring is actually composed of bamboo strips that have been laminated together. Engineered-bamboo flooring has a veneer of bamboo over layers of plywood. There are also “click-together” varieties that are assembled simply by snapping flooring pieces together, but be forewarned that these often do not bear as professional a look once they are installed.

Although bamboo is naturally light in color, it can be darkened by steam and pressure in a process called carbonization. (Do be aware that carbonization is said to soften bamboo by as much as 30 percent, resulting in a flooring product that may be less resilient.) Some manufacturers also offer a range of stained bamboo flooring, as well as hand-scraped options.

While bamboo flooring is now widely available, not all bamboo is created equal. Low-cost bamboo is generally made from stalks that have yet to fully mature, which means the plant has not developed the density needed to make an acceptable floor and will easily mar and dent.

Because bamboo is type of grass that renews every few years, it is considered an environmentally friendly product. For more information about how bamboo flooring is a “green” option, read Sustainable Wood Flooring.

By : HomeTips.com

Modular Steam Shower Units

2009-04-05T20:28:00.000+07:00

Typically priced from $3,000 to $5,000, all-in-one modular steam shower units have integral doors, molded seats, steam dispensers, multiple showerheads, and more.

In one of these, you can enjoy either a steam bath or a regular shower—and some units even have whirlpool bathtubs at the base.

Made of easy-to-clean acrylic, these waterproof enclosures are designed to keep water vapor from escaping into the rest of the bathroom where it could damage walls, wallpaper, and paint.

Basic models are sized and configured to fit the space of a conventional bathtub/shower unit—as a result, replacing an existing tub can be done without excessive reconstruction. Most are designed for easy installation and hookup to plumbing.

Don't expect a lot of color choices. Most modular units come in white or off-white. Look for a model that has a textured floor to reduce the potential for slipping.

Modular shower steam rooms are sold online and at home sauna and hot tub stores. Be sure to check out the many different brands, because each has its own special features. Popular makes include Kohler, Whirlpool, Wasauna, Finnleo, and LineaAqua.

For example, Wasauna’s acrylic steam showers are reinforced with fiberglass for greater resilience. LineaAqua offers a variety of ultra-modern designs, including the Caesar model, which is a freestanding circular enclosure made of tempered blue glass.

If you order a modular steam shower online, be sure to double-check dimensions. Either request the location of a showroom you can visit or ask the manufacturer to send you photos before you buy. Also discuss any plumbing and electrical requirements.

How to Choose a Refrigerator

2009-04-04T22:41:00.000+07:00

With so many models and features available, selecting a new refrigerator can feel like an overwhelming task. Here are some things to consider before you even step foot in the store.

The first, and perhaps most important step, is to measure how much space you have for your refrigerator. This includes both the space where your appliance will sit, as well as how far out into the room it will expand when its doors are open. Remember to include about an inch of clearance at the top and sides of your appliance.

You will also have to consider how much storage capacity your family requires. Refrigerator storage capacity runs from about 18 to 28 cubic feet, which includes the space occupied by shelves and hardware. (Consumer Reports notes that the actual usable capacity could be as much as 35 percent less than the storage capacity claimed by the manufacturer, particularly with side-by-side models.) Couples or small families may find that a model with 18 to 22 cubic feet of storage will suit their needs, but larger families or those who enjoy entertaining may need more space.

Next, you should consider what type of door configuration you would prefer. Options include the classic side-by-side (with the refrigerator and freezer vertical to each other) and top-mount models (with the freezer above the refrigerator compartment). Bottom-mount models, which place the freezer at the bottom of the unit, are becoming increasing popular, in part because they generally offer more space than a side-by-side model and, unlike a top-mount refrigerator, put the most used compartment, the refrigerator area, at a comfortable, eye-level height. There are bottom-mount models with a single door for the refrigerated area as well as the relatively recent French-door design.

Once you’ve decided upon your basic needs, think about which convenience features are most important to your family. Do you need an in-door ice-and-water dispenser? Glide-out baskets and shelves in your freezer compartment? Humidity controls for your deli and vegetable-crisper storage areas? For more help navigating the plethora of options you will have to choose from, see Features to Look for When Buying a Refrigerator.

Of course, purchasing an energy-efficient refrigerator is wise, especially considering that refrigerators are among the most energy-consuming appliances in the home. Always look for the Energy Star seal. (Read more about what to look for in How to Find an Energy-Efficient Refrigerator, and discover how to conserve energy once you have purchased your appliance in Refrigerator Energy-Saving Tips.)

When it comes to aesthetics, you will have a choice among black, white, almond, and stainless-steel (or lookalike) finishes. Consider the look of your kitchen and your other appliances, but also know that a stainless-steel refrigerator, which bears a professional appearance, could increase your home’s resale value. Some manufacturers now offer faux stainless-steel finishes that are easier to keep clean (fingerprints and smudges occur easily and often on true stainless steel) and sometimes come at lower price points.

Speaking of cost, it pays to do your homework. Once you know what you want, research your choices both at local appliance stores and online. Read consumer reports, ratings, and reviews. Always ask about and factor in delivery and installation expenses if purchasing your product locally or shipping costs if you are buying your appliance online. And if you don’t mind some minor blemishes, consider purchasing a refrigerator with some small scratches or dents. Dealers sometimes sell products with such cosmetic defects at significantly discounted prices.

Finally, always look for a model with a good warranty, which should cover your appliance’s parts for one year and its sealed refrigeration system for five years.

How to Clean Your Spa or Hot Tub

2009-04-04T22:36:00.000+07:00

Because of their exceedingly high water temperatures as well as the heavy use they get, spas tend to require frequent maintenance to keep them clean. The best tools for keeping a spa clean are basically the same as those used to clean swimming pools—just on a smaller scale.

Leaf skimmer. As in a pool, this long- handled net is necessary for removing large pieces of floating debris.

Vacuum. A spa vacuum can be powered in several ways. If your spa is not connected to the circulation system of an in-ground pool, a good solution is a vacuum that’s powered by a jet of water from a garden hose.

Spa wand. A more streamlined alternative to a vacuum, a spa wand also collects debris through suction. It may be powered either by pumping or turning the handle or by a rechargeable battery.

Bucket and soft sponge. These two low-tech tools are a must for cleaning interior spa walls.

Skimming and vacuuming. Since a spa is so small, even a minimal amount of debris can lower the efficiency of the circulation system. Bring out the skimmer each time you use your spa, and either vacuum or use a spa wand twice a week to remove debris that has settled to the bottom.

Cleaning out the baskets. Debris-free baskets are essential to the proper operation of the circulation system. Clean the skimmers twice a week by removing leaves and anything else obstructing the water flow. With in-ground spas, the strainer baskets are hidden in the surrounding deck; for portable spas, the baskets are near the pump.

Cleaning the inner surface. Because total dissolved solids build up quickly, spa water needs to be drained fairly often. Emptying the spa provides an opportunity for cleaning the inner surfaces. Brush the spa interior to eliminate calcium scales and any algae buildup. A plaster-lined concrete spa can withstand stiff brushing, but fiberglass and acrylic spas are more delicate.

To clean tile, don’t use anything very abrasive or stiff that could scratch the tile or damage the grout. A pumice stone works well, removing scale like a giant eraser. A putty knife is also great for scraping off especially heavy scale. Another alternative is to dissolve the scale with a 50/50 mix of water and muriatic acid. (Muriatic acid is extremely corrosive, and its vapors can be toxic if inhaled, so be sure to protect your eyes and hands and work in a well-ventilated area when making the mixture.) Apply the solution with a nylon brush and scrub. Rinse well when you’re finished.

Types of Drinking Water Filters

2009-04-03T23:27:00.000+07:00

No single water filter technology will eliminate all types of contaminants, but some treatment devices use more than one method to rid water of nearly all contaminants. Once you’ve identified your specific problem, you can choose a water-treatment solution that is right for it.

Reverse-osmosis (RO) filters. For water with multiple contaminants, a reverse-osmosis filter is often the best solution. It will remove inorganic chemicals such as salts, metals (including lead), minerals, nitrates, asbestos, and, because most models include carbon pre-filters and post-filters, catch organic chemicals such as pesticides, as well as trihalomethanes (THMs) and radon. Not all remove chlorine, so if this claim is made, request proof. The carbon post-filter is used to improve the water’s aesthetic properties. Pre- and post-filter cartridges should be replaced annually.

Most RO systems mount beneath the sink and connect directly to the plumbing. A small tank stores clean water until needed, and tainted water drains out through a line connected to the sink trap. With most, drinking water flows through a special, separate sink-top spout or may be routed to an ice maker or water cooler.

Conventional RO filters waste about 3 gallons for every gallon of pure water they produce; some have an automatic valve that prevents excessive waste. RO filters generally cost from $400 to $600.
Distillers. Another device that will remove almost everything from water is a distiller. Distillers electrically heat water until it turns into steam; the steam then condenses and turns back into water in a separate chamber, leaving behind 99 percent of the health- and aesthetic-related pollutants.

Countertop models must be filled manually, use a lot of electricity, and may take several hours to produce 1 gallon of water, but they are relatively inexpensive at from $100 to $300.

Activated carbon (AC) filters. If your water tastes, smells, or looks bad, a filter containing activated carbon (AC) will probably make it much more palatable. Many AC filters also remove chlorine, pesticides, herbicides, radon, THMs, and some inorganic chemicals, but not all carbon filters effectively reduce lead content. If you’re concerned about lead, be sure the unit you’re considering is certified for lead removal. Solid-block and precoat absorption filters trap lead.

Though a carbon filter will remove mercury, don’t count on a conventional one to remove all metals, salts, nitrates and nitrites, and organisms. In fact, be aware that a carbon filter will accumulate the contaminants it cleans from water, and the resulting bacteria may even breed in it, so it’s very important to replace filter cartridges religiously, according to the manufacturer’ s recommendations.

Effectiveness of a particular carbon unit is directly related to the amount of activated carbon it contains. Beneath-the-counter systems with dual filters typically cost from $100 to $200. The $30 faucet-end models are only marginally effective. Whole-house point-of-entry (POE) systems, recommended where a contaminant such as radon poses a threat to the entire house, cost $500 or more.

Ultraviolet (UV) disinfection devices may kill bacteria and viruses, and improve the taste and odor of water, but they are not effective against chemical pollutants and may not work against cysts and spores. In some carbon filter units, ultraviolet is used to kill bacteria.

10 Ways to Ensure Good Interior Air Quality

2009-04-03T23:24:00.000+07:00

The American Society of Heating, Refrigerating, and Air Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) has generated the following list of actions homeowners can take to achieve good indoor air quality:

1) Fossil fuel–fired water heaters and furnaces should use sealed combustion or be power- vented. When natural-draft appliances are used, they should be properly vented and be outside the occupiable space when possible.

2) Vent bathrooms, kitchens, toilets, and laundry rooms directly outdoors. Use energy-efficient and quiet fans.

3) Avoid locating furnaces, air conditioners, and ductwork in garages or other spaces where they could draw contaminants into the house. Install an automatic door closer on any door from the house to the garage. To reduce airborne contaminant transport, apply weatherstripping around door edges. If ducts must pass through a garage or other potentially polluted space, seal the ducts well to avoid entrainment of polluted air.

4) Properly vent fireplaces, wood stoves, and other hearth products; use tight doors and outdoor air intakes for these products when possible.

5) Put a particle filter or air cleaner in your air-handling system to keep dirt out of the air and off your ductwork and heating and cooling components. Regularly maintain it or replace it as needed.

6) Vent clothes dryers and central vacuum cleaners directly outdoors.

7) Store volatile compounds such as paints, solvents, cleaners, and pesticides out of the occupiable space and away from ventilation air intakes.

8) Minimize or avoid altogether unvented combustion sources such as candles, cigarettes, indoor barbecues, decorative combustion appliances, and vent-free heaters.

9) Distribute a minimum amount of outdoor air as recommended by ASHRAE 62.2 throughout the home, using whole-house mechanical ventilation.
10) Provide operable windows or other mechanical ventilation to every space to accommodate such events as the use of home cleaning products and hobby activities.

Choosing Wallpaper

2009-03-31T22:26:00.000+07:00

A wallcovering’s material content determines its durability, cleanability, cost, and ease of installation and removal. Before purchasing any wallpaper, ask about these qualities, as well as about the manufacturer’s guarantees.

Vinyl wallpaper
The most popular wallcoverings are made of a continuous, flexible vinyl film applied to a backing. They are durable, strong, and easy to maintain. Backings may be fabric or paper.

Fabric-backed vinyl, the sturdiest wallpaper, is washable (often scrubbable), moisture resistant, and usually strippable (meaning it can be removed from the wall by hand without leaving any residue). Fabric-backed vinyl usually comes unpasted.

Paper-backed vinyl is lightweight, so it often comes prepasted. Paper-backed expanded vinyl produces a 3D effect and is especially suited to walls that aren’t perfectly smooth. It comes in styles that mimic the look of rough plaster, granite, textured paint, or grass cloth.

Vinyl-coated paper is paper coated with a vinyl layer so thin it looks like paper. It lends a finished look to a wall but is best for light-use areas because it stains and tears more easily than papers that have greater vinyl content.

Textiles
These wallcoverings come in many colors and textures, in styles ranging from very casual to formally elegant. They’re usually made of natural fibers such as cotton or linen, or of polyester bonded to a paper backing.

A traditional favorite is grass cloth, which can be hung horizontally, vertically, or in a combination of the two. Hemp, similar to grass cloth but with thinner fibers, is easier to install.

Hand-screened paper
This vividly colorful paper is more expensive than most machine-printed wallpapers because each color is applied with a separate handmade and hand-placed silk screen. Some newer machine-printed papers have the look of hand-screened ones and are less expensive.

Hanging these types of papers can be tricky. Patterns may match less evenly than many other wallcoverings, and edges often need to be trimmed and double-cut at seams. Also, because water-soluble dyes are often used in their manufacture, great care must be taken to ensure that the printed side is kept free of paste and water.

Solid paper
Paper wallcoverings with no vinyl content tear easily and should only be considered for extremely light-use areas.

Foils & flocks
Foils and flocks (paper resembling damask or cut velvet) can brighten up any small, dark space. They require an absolutely smooth wall surface and can wrinkle easily.

By : HomeTips.com

A Green Approach to Herbicides & Fertilizers

2009-03-31T22:22:00.000+07:00

According to the EPA, residential lawns can use more than 10 times as much fertilizer and herbicide as commercial farms—chemicals that eventually end up in our water supply. While both cold weather and warm weather grasses do often require additional nitrogen, phosphorus, and/or potassium to remain healthy and vibrant, there are several things homeowners can do to reduce the amount and frequency of fertilizing with these chemicals.

The first question to ask yourself is whether you need to fertilize at all. There are a few things to look for before grabbing the bag of weed and feed. First, is clover taking over? Clover thrives on nitrogen but, unlike your lawn, pulls it from the air, not the soil. So if clover is taking hold, it usually means that your lawn is low on nitrogen.

Luckily those yard clippings that you sweep and bag after mowing are packed with the nitrogen your lawn needs. According to the EPA, nearly one-fifth of all municipal solid waste collected is organic matter or yard waste that could be composted on site. Using a mulching mower that chops grass clippings to less than a half-inch long and leaves them on the lawn builds a healthy thatch to protect against soil erosion, returns the nutrients directly to the plants, and reduces expanding your local landfill. No fertilizer needed.

What is the pH level of your soil? The arch-enemy of any lawn lover is the dreaded dandelion, and it turns out that the little weeds love a high pH, while your lawn wants a lower pH. If the weeds are taking over, have your soil professionally tested. To strike the right balance you will want to apply either sulfur to lower the pH or lime to raise it.

If you do need to feed the grass, you have options. Applying organic mulch is a great way to nourish your lawn without injecting potential toxins into the environment. Usually applied in the fall, organic fertilizers slowly release nutrients when the root system is stocking up for winter. These products promote deep root growth that improves your topsoil as well as reduces water run-off.

Likewise, when you consider the cost of purchasing herbicides that target broad leaf plants like dandelions, remember that those chemicals end up polluting the planet's soil and water supply. While it may seem faster and easier just to apply a few squirts of poison to your driveway or sidewalk, elbow grease and a hand spade are considerably safer for you, your pets, and your neighbors downstream.

Country French Style

2009-03-30T22:49:00.000+07:00

The French are known for their ability to combine comfort with an unerring sense of style, and Country French decorating is much the same.

Whether a country estate or a second home (called a pied-à-terre), a house in this style might feature mellow oak flooring, hand-painted pottery, iron chandeliers, oversize furniture, vintage linens, and gilded mirrors—all in one room.

Light or bright colors coexist happily with dark wood, and an antique coverlet might be draped on the back of a newly purchased chair.

The key is quality: Choose timeless furnishings with excellent design, and then throw in some quirky favorites, though age isn't nearly as important as beauty, utility, and charm.

• Walls and ceilings. Thickly plastered walls are traditional, but today's homes can replicate that look with faux-finish textures. Paint walls a rich shade of cream, or move toward sunflower gold, terra cotta, grass green, or vibrant blue shades for the look of the Provence region in southern France.

• Floors. Choose natural materials such as oak planks, flagstone, or handmade tile for the most authentic appearance. If wall-to-wall carpeting is already down and it is prohibitive to remove it, then top it with a hooked, hand-loomed, or needlepoint area rug that echoes colors in the room.

• Surfaces. Go for a combination of textures: Pair rough with smooth or aged wood with polished metal. Natural materials (or look-alikes) are preferable. For kitchen countertops, honed marble and limestone are traditional.

• Furniture. Lines are similar to the fancier, even gilded, furniture in the style of Louis XV or Louis XVI. For a more casual and comfortable appearance, the wood is stained or painted and scuffed to look as though it has been passed down for generations. Look for upholstered sofas and armchairs with exposed-wood legs and arms, chests and storage cupboards with curving lines and raised-panel doors, and old farm tables with plank tops.

• Fabrics. Think cotton, linen, velvet, and wool—natural fabrics that feel good to the touch. Patterns include checks; small, geometric motifs; and traditional toile-de-Jouy scenic designs, often printed in only one color against a contrasting background. Include vintage linens, laces, or other antique fabrics on a few pillows.

• Accessories. Display an assortment of handmade pottery glazed in rich colors, as well as assorted copper and the painted-tin known as toleware. Paintings of rural landscapes, farm animals, and seascapes—either realistic or impressionistic—add an authentic touch.

• Details. Each chair should have an ottoman or footstool; this offers wordless permission for guests to get comfortable and put up their feet. Drape a colorful square tablecloth diagonally across the dining table, and center it with flowers loosely arranged in a glass or pottery pitcher.

Types of Room Air Conditioners

2009-03-30T22:44:00.000+07:00

There are three main types of room air conditioners: window units, through-the-wall units, and portable models. Following is a closer look at each.

Window units are by far the most popular. Models can be installed in most single- or double-hung windows and typically come with accordion panels that allow for a secure fit. Some also fit in sliding windows

Installing a window unit is an easy DIY project. Make sure you measure the inside window dimensions before you shop. Directions and hardware should be included.
Through-the-wall units require opening a hole in an exterior wall, a job that is considerably more involved than installing a window unit. On the plus side, they don’t take up window space, and they allow for a more airtight and secure fit.

Most window models can be installed as through-the-wall units—you just add a frame to support the unit. Small units can be installed by handy do-it-yourselfers. Large through-the-wall units may require professional installation.

Portable air conditioners, self-contained, freestanding units, are the new kids on the block. Most have casters, so they can be wheeled into the room or rooms that need to be cooled. They come with a large, room wall air conditioner unilflexible hose that is attached to a window for exhausting hot air, much like a clothes dryer is vented. Though they tend to cost more than window and through-the-wall units, they are practical because of their portability and can be taken with you when you move.

Air conditioners remove water from the air as they cool it, which means that most portable units have reservoirs that need to be periodically emptied, though some also come with optional hookups for a drainage hose. Some new models evaporate much of the moisture and exhaust it, greatly reducing the frequency of need to empty a container.

By : Hometips.com

Carpet Fiber Types

2009-03-29T22:08:00.000+07:00

The fibers used for a carpet's face yarn dramatically affect its appearance and performance. Here is a look at the carpet fibers used today:

Nylon
Two-thirds of carpet fibers are nylon, a material that offers excellent durability and is wear-, soil-, and mildew-resistant. Nylon fibers are resilient, survive the crushing weight of furniture, and hold up well in heavily trafficked areas. Nylon is available in brilliant colors, and solution-dyed varieties are colorfast. Nylon carpets tend to cost from about $8 to $25 per square yard. At rock-bottom, they run as low as $5; at the high end you can pay $70 per square yard or more.

Olefin
Also known as polypropylene, olefin fibers represent about 30% of the carpet market. Although olefin began as an outdoor carpet fiber thanks to its resistance to moisture and mildew, new advances in its look and feel have made it popular for the house. It is easy to clean, strong, and resists stains, wear, and static electricity.

Olefin fibers are used primarily in multi-level loops, such as berbers, and in low-profile commercial cut piles. Color is added before the material is turned into fiber, making olefin colorfast. Some carpet tiles made of olefin are felt-like in texture; for these, polypropylene fibers are needle-punched into a mesh core. Olefin carpet is comparable in price to nylon; although the fiber is less expensive, more processes are involved in its manufacture.

Polyester
If you like a luxurious, soft, thick-cut pile, polyester may be your best bet. Polyester fibers, known for their soft "hand," have plenty of body, resist wear, and offer strong color and luster retention. Unfortunately, they are not as durable as nylon and olefin. Currently, many polyester carpets are made from recycled PET (polyester) from plastic soda bottles and containers. Polyester carpets run about $1 less per square yard than comparable nylon products.

Acrylic
Although you won't likely find a 100% acrylic carpet, these fibers are blended with other fibers such as wool because they approximate the look and feel of natural wool but are less expensive. Acrylic fibers are resistant to moisture, mildew, and fading.

Wool
The most luxurious fiber is natural wool. It is soft, durable, offers generous bulk, and comes in many colors. From an ecological viewpoint, it is a particularly responsible choice because it comes from a sustainable resource. Unfortunately, wool is also considerably more expensive than synthetics. For wool, you're likely to pay from $40 to $100 per square yard—or more.

How to Replace a Door Lockset

2009-03-29T22:04:00.001+07:00

t's often easy to replace an inexpensive lockset with one that is a similar type. If possible, take the old lockset with you when you're buying a new one, or bring the following information:
* Type of lock--cylindrical, tubular, or rim
* Diameter of the cylinder and latch holes or the size of the rim
* Distance from the edge of the door to the center of the doorknob
* Thickness of the door
* Direction the door opens--inward or outward

Replacing a lockset is an easy job. Remove the knob by releasing the shank button with a small screwdriver as shown at below left. Then remove the mounting plate (see below right). Unscrew and remove the latch assembly. Then just reverse the process to reassemble with a new lockset.

A relatively easy repair for a door that doesn't lock securely enough is to install a new deadbolt. To do this, you drill two new holes in the door--one in the face for the lock's body and one in the edge to accommodate the bolt.

Deadbolts are packaged with templates that show the exact placement of holes to ensure a perfect fit.

Prefabricatead Shower Buying Guide

2009-03-27T19:38:00.003+07:00

Single-piece molded fiberglass, synthetic marble, or laminate showers are relatively inexpensive, quick and simple to install, easy to clean, and watertight. Most prefabricated shower stalls are formed with benches, integral shelves, and grab bars. Shapes include square, rectangular, and corner configurations.

One-piece showers are common in new construction because they are very quick to install and don’t have seams that could leak in the future. Unfortunately, these generally don’t work in a remodel unless one or more walls are being removed because they are too large to fit through a doorway.

For most remodels, prefabricated showers with wall panels that are assembled on site work better. With these, wall panels fit over a molded shower base and are attached to a waterproofed wall.

With the exception of one-piece showers, all showers begin with a base, sometimes called a receptor, or a "pan," which can be purchased ready-made or built from scratch. Construction demands skill because the pan must be waterproofed and sloped precisely to the drain, which must be set at the right height for perfect drainage. Prefabricated bases—in molded plastic, cast polymer, solid-surface composite, or poured masonry—come in various sizes and shapes and can be used with wall panels or custom surrounds. For more about this, see Custom Shower Planning & Buying Guide.

If you’re remodeling, be sure to select a prefabricated shower pan that has a drain opening that matches the existing location of your drainpipe.

from : Hometips.com

High-Performance Green Building

2009-03-27T19:36:00.001+07:00

The term "high performance" is usually reserved for sports cars and Grateful Dead concerts, but homes can also have a high-performance side, and like a race car, it all revolves around results.

Most homes in this category are built from the ground up, which allows for system-engineered design and quality-controlled construction.

The key to a high-performance home is that all the major systems within the home work together to create a comfortable and healthy living environment that operates on an elevated level of energy efficiency and building durability

One aspect of this is that the HVAC system is sized specifically for the home and that register supply and return vents are placed in a room to most effectively heat and cool that space.

Every aspect of the home's energy use is taken into account. It's a pretty heady goal, but with today's advances in building science, design, and technology, high-performance homes are being built at a rapid rate across the country.

Common elements of a high-performance home include:

* An airtight, moisture-managed, and well-insulated building

* Manifold plumbing systems

* Geo-thermal heat pumps

* Programmable thermostats

* Climate control "zones" throughout the house

* Performance testing at each stage of the building process

Unfortunately, turning your existing home into a super-charged high-performance home can be difficult. Imagine trying to get a 1977 Chevy Nova up to the performance specs of a 2007 Corvette Z06. It may be possible, but it's not really practical. However, there are plenty of lessons to be learned from high-performance homes like performing a blower-door test to uncover major air leaks in the building envelope or making sure your ducts are cleaned and sealed to improve the HVAC system performance.

If you are looking to really conserve energy, a high-performance home may be your ticket, but low power bills are only one aspect of green.

Guide to Plumbing Pipes

2009-03-27T19:33:00.002+07:00

Visiting your local hardware store prior to doing your own plumbing can be a confusing experience. Which type of pipe should you choose? You'll find that the answer isn't as clear as it may have been in the past--when there were much fewer plumbing pipe choices. Here are the main types of plumbing supplies you will use:

PVC Pipe - Polyvinyl Chloride
PVC pipe has been a very big deal in the plumbing industry in the last few decades, because it is lighter and easier to work with than traditional galvanized steel pipe. You will mainly be using PVC pipe for drain or waste pipes, or stacks (those pipes you often see sticking up out of the roofline), and not as supply pipes. PVC pipe is easy to install, and requires little more than a hacksaw, miter box, and solvents which essentially "glue" the pipe together. Diameters are clearly marked on the white surface of the pipe. If not easy to read, diameters can be determined with a sizing tool such as Pi-Piper.
Rigid Copper Pipe
This is your water supply pipe. Rigid copper is easily cut with a hacksaw or Skilsaw, or with a special copper tube cutter. Connection is a different matter, as it requires a practiced hand to solder copper pipe together (advice: buy extra copper pipe to practice on). Rigid copper pipe is great for water supply because it resists corroding, and does not carry the health risks that PVC has.
ABS Pipe
ABS pipe looks very much like PVC pipe, except it is black. ABS is basically the "older version" of PVC, and is often not allowed anymore by plumbing codes. Like PVC, ABS pipe is used for drain and vent pipes. If working with ABS, the best advice is to replace with PVC.
Flexible Copper Tubing
Flexible copper is used for short runs. You have probably seen it leading up to your water heater, or for cold water supply in tight spots. Flexible copper tubes can be cut with ease with a hacksaw, and bent to fit around corners. Because it does not stand up well against extreme temperatures, flexible copper is not recommended for exterior use.
Galvanized Iron Pipe
Galvanized iron pipe is the pipe of popular imagination: it is what we think of when we think about plumbing pipe. It is made of galvanized steel, with each end of the pipe threaded. Individual pipes are screwed into each other with connecting joints. While extremely strong, galvanized pipe is rarely used for new home construction, and is not recommended for the home renovator.

How to Install a Drinking Water Filter

2009-03-27T19:28:00.002+07:00

Installing the type of water-treatment device that utilizes filter cartridges under the sink and delivers clean water through a sink-top spout is a relatively easy do-it-yourself project. Doing this job involves simply mounting the filter unit in the cabinet and connecting plastic tubing to your existing cold water pipes using special saddle valves.

Several different types of water treatment devices are sold, including dual-cartridge devices like the one shown below and reverse-osmosis systems that work basically the same way but also utilize an undersink storage tank that holds clean water and is connected to the sink’s trap because it discharges wastewater. Neither type requires electrical power.

Filters inside cartridge-based water treatment devices must be changed periodically—typically twice a year. Changes in the odor, taste, and/or flow of the water are sure signs that the filter cartridges need to be replaced.

1.
Start by mounting the dispenser. Most are designed to fit in the extra hole in a sink top, as shown, but if this hole is already occupied, you’ll have to drill another in the sink or countertop. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for the location and size of the hole. Drill only into stainless-steel or porcelain cast-iron sinks; if you have an all-porcelain sink, drill for the dispenser through the countertop.

2.
Tap into the existing cold water supply line via a saddle valve, as shown. To install a saddle valve, first turn off the water supply and then open the faucet to drain the line. Following the manufacturer’s directions, drill a small hole in the supply line. Turn the handle on the valve to expose the lance that’s designed to puncture the pipe, and position the valve over the pipe so that the lance fits in the hole. Attach the back plate of the valve and tighten the nuts to lock it in place, and then screw in the lance.

3.
Position the cartridge filtration unit roughly between the cold water line and the dispenser. Be sure to leave the specified clearance between the system and the cabinet bottom to allow for cartridge replacement. Secure the device to the cabinet back or wall with the screws provided.

4.
To hook up the device, start by cutting a length of plastic tubing to reach between the saddle valve and the system. Make it short enough not to kink, but long enough to allow for installing a new compression fitting (the connector shown at the end of the tubing) later, if needed. Press the tubing into the compression fitting and thread it onto the saddle valve; tighten with an adjustable wrench.

5.
Insert the opposite end of the tubing into another compression fitting and thread it onto the inlet port of the filtration unit. Tighten the nut with your hand, and then make another turn or turn and a half with an adjustable wrench.

6.
Finally, cut a piece of tubing to run from the outlet port of the system to the water dispenser. Insert compression fittings on both ends and thread the nuts onto the dispenser and the system. Turn on the water supply and open the water dispenser. Let the water run for about five minutes to flush out any carbon particles or air pockets. Most manufacturers recommend allowing the water to run for about 20 seconds before using.

from: Hometips.com

Running Wire in Open Walls

2009-01-10T11:53:00.001+07:00

From Kris Jensen-Van Heste, for About.com

There are two instances in which you'd find yourself running wire in open, or unfinished, walls: Either it's a permanently unfinished space, such as a garage or shed, or you're running wire in preparation for finishing the room as a living space and the wire won't be exposed. The two scenarios call for two very different methods.

While running wiring can be done by a skilled do-it-yourselfer, tying the wiring into the breaker box and to the outlets and switches is a job best left to a qualified electrician.

Running Wire in a Permanently Unfinished Space

Before you proceed, be certain you won't change your mind later and decide to finish the space, because you'll have to redo the wiring. This method requires considerably more wire than what you'd use on a space that will be finished because you're essentially following the path of the wood framing up, down and across. This keeps the wire from spanning open spaces, where it could be snagged and pulled by yard tools or sports equipment in the garage, for example.

What You'll Need

* Both municipal and national codes require insulated wire, and most commonly used is 12- or 14-gauge nonmetallic sheathed cable known as Romex.
* Plastic cable straps, also known as plastic staples.
* Hammer

How to Run the Wire

1. Plan your wiring layout. First, decide where you want electrical boxes (for outlets and switches). Attach the boxes, whether metal or plastic, to the studs with nails.
2. Begin working at the box closest to your electrical breaker box. Run the wire through the box and out the side hole in the direction of the next box. Leave enough wire to reach the breaker box, plus at least another foot, for later connection.
3. Secure the cable to the very center of the wider face of the studs within 12 inches of each box and at least every 4 feet with plastic cable straps, also called plastic staples. Be extremely careful not to nail through the wire itself. Wherever the cable doesn't snug up to the wood, secure it with an additional strap. All wires must be at minimum 1-1/4 inches from the front and back edges of all studs and joists.
4. At the top of the stud, route the wire up to the header (the piece of wood that runs across the top of the studs) and across its face.
5. To move horizontally, bring the wire up to the face of the header atop the stud, then staple it as you carry it across until you reach the stud that bears the next box. Choose the shortest route possible, of course, to the next box, running the wire against wood. Keep the wire as protected as possible - and as visible and accessible as possible.
6. Continue stapling the wire until you reach the next box.
7. Snake the wire into the box and out through the front about 10 to 12 inches, then double back , leaving about 20 to 24 inches total, and run the wire out of the box toward the next one, keeping the wire securely stapled to the wood.
8. Travel back up to the header and on to your next box.
9. To cross the ceiling, travel with the joists, not across them, securing to the wider, vertical side of the joist. You don't want wire without wood to support it.

Running Wire in a Space to be Finished

It takes less wire and less effort to run wire on a wall that's going to be finished. The major difference in this case is that it's perfectly fine to span the space between the studs with the wire, since it will be enclosed and won't be in danger of being snagged or pulled.

To run wire across the studs:

1. With a 1-inch spade bit mounted on a right-angle power drill or standard drill with a right-angle attachment, bore a hole through the wide face of the stud. The hole needs to be at least 1-1/4 inches from the front edge of the stud to meet code requirements and to prevent accidental contact when the drywall goes up. There are no rules regarding how high you place the hole and wiring - the best route is the one that leads directly to the next box.
2. Following the steps above, install the electrical boxes. Instead of following the perimeter of the framing, just run the wire through each hole, spanning the space between the studs.
3. If you're going to insulate the wall before installing drywall, be sure to leave enough slack in the wiring between the studs so there's no tension when the insulation is put in. Insulation is commonly sliced so the wiring is encased in it, but check with your insulation's manufacturer for their recommendations regarding installation around the wiring.

Tips

* It's imperative that you contact your municipality and ask for its specific codes regarding electrical wiring. There may be differences from national code, and you don't want unpleasant surprises later.
* Find out if permits are required.
* Metal nail guard plates can be placed over the edges of studs to protect the drilled hole and wiring inside it.

How to Reduce Noise in Your Living Space

2009-01-05T21:30:00.002+07:00

By Lee Wallender, About.com

Q: “I live in a condo building outside a busy intersection. Our bedroom has windows on two walls with double sliding panes which are quite insulated. Our bed's headboard rests against the opposite wall, however we are still woken up each night by the sound of truck engines. I've done some browsing, but I can't seem to find a product that will solve my noise pollution problem. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!”

A: Many factors influence the level of sound within a building, so first let's deal with some of the easier fixes that may not necessarily have anything to do with home renovation or windows.
Our sound quality expert reminds us that the entire room transmits sounds. So, everything from the studs to the drywall to the windows to the floor to ceiling ask as a giant "eardrum" to pick up and transmits any external sounds. That said, one simple fix is simply to make sure that your headboard is not resting against the wall. Breaking the connection between the wall and headboard will go a long ways towards quieting down your bedroom.

Next factor: does your bedroom have proper sound dampening qualities? By this, we mean carpeting, thick draperies (as opposed to the Venetian blinds), a sufficient amount of furniture, padding under the carpet, and so on. And while almost no one likes it anymore, the classic cottage cheese or popcorn style ceiling is also marvelous at reducing sounds.

Perhaps carpeting and drapes and popcorn ceilings do not fit with your aesthetic? There is something called Acousti-Coat Sound Reduction Paint, which is very expensive but claims to have certain sound absorbing fillers and resins that will help quiet down the sound in your room. Be careful, though: Acousti-Coat is about three times more expensive than regular interior latex paint, and I am dubious about its effectiveness.

Assuming that your condo association will agree to changes in your windows, you can upgrade to a triple paned window. Many homeowners install triple paned windows as much for their sound-deflecting qualities as for any potential energy savings. The good thing about triple paned windows is that you can duplicate the same style of window that you currently have without running afoul of your condo association.

Another thing to look at, which many homeowners rarely think about, is the type of window frame that you have. Think of it: doesn't metal transmit sound better than plastic? If you have metal framed windows, you are better off with vinyl, fiberglass, or wood framed windows, at least as far as controlling sound goes.

Another add-on that the condo association would probably not object to is to install a storm window. Storm windows are easy to put on, easy to take off, very cheap, and not very noticeable. The ultimate solution would be shutters. Real wood shutters would guarantee quieter nights, but would understandably be a hard sell to the other residents in the association.

Home Renovation - Do it Yourself or Hire a Pro?

2009-01-05T10:25:00.001+07:00

By Lee Wallender, About.com

Do it yourself...or not? You could literally spend months pondering whether to save money by doing the project yourself or...to break into the piggybank and hire a pro. Not an easy decision.

Let's break it down into a few basic questions. After you're done, check out my chart of "do it yourself or hire a pro" recommendations for various types of projects.
How Motivated Are You to Do it Yourself?

Have an uncontrollable desire to knock down interior walls? To renovate an entire kitchen? Or do you find that painting the baby's room one Sunday is quite enough to scratch that renovating itch? It's important to gauge how much you want to take on yourself before doing it.
Recommendation: Take on some small projects first to make sure you really want to "do it yourself" before tackling larger projects.

How Motivated Are You to Have Strangers in Your House?

They're in your house to help you, but in the process they turn your house upside-down. And managing work crews in your house is a taxing proposition. Do not underestimate the imposition of four workmen hanging drywall in your house for a solid week.
Recommendation: Decide how muchlack of control in your house you can tolerate before inviting workers in.
What is Your Skill Level?

You have the power to take on any renovation project. A person who barely knows how to plug in a blender is capable of learning how to re-wire the entire kitchen. However, remember that your kitchen is your classroom. While you learn to distinguish ground wires from neutral, the kitchen is a disaster and you're washing sinks with a garden hose on the lawn.
Recommendation: Make certain you're at the proper skill level (or can learn quickly enough) to bring the project to a swift conclusion.
Do You Have the Time?

Tiling the bathroom is one thing. Tiling the bathroom at 9:30pm after a full day of conference calls is another thing. And don't you also have a life to lead?

Recommendation: Know in advance how much time you want to put into a project--before starting it.
How Does Your Funding Look?

Money, or lack of it, motivates the do-it-yourselfer. While there is a certain satisfaction in replacing your front door yourself, chances are Bill Gates hires someone else to do this for him.
Recommendation: If you have the money, and the project looks infinitely nasty, consider hiring a pro.

How to Renovate a House

2009-01-05T10:22:00.002+07:00

Organizing A Whole House Remodel

By Lee Wallender, About.com

The process of renovation can be mind-bending. Just when you've decided to refinish the floors before painting the walls--you realize it makes more sense to do walls before floors. Or is it the other way around? Do you begin to see the problems? When renovating a house, there is an infinite number of ways to skin a cat. But following is one suggested whole house renovation timeline.

1. Design and Planning
Whether it's a sketch on a cocktail napkin or full-blown architectural plans, some type of planning and design always comes first.

* Ensure that you have funding for your renovation.
* Draw up a simple "yes/no" list of do-it-yourself projects and projects you want professionals to do.
* Look for contractors and subcontractors for those jobs you do not want to do yourself.
* Apply for permits.

2. Roof, Foundation, Siding, Windows
Protect your future renovation work by making certain the house won't collapse on you (foundation, major structural problems) and that it will remain dry (roof, siding, windows).

* Secure the foundation.
* Make major structural repairs to areas such as weakened walls, joists, and carrying beams.
* Repair or replace roof.
* Replace seriously damaged windows that may threaten future remodeling work. If not seriously damaged, leave it for later in the process.
* If the siding is so damaged that it will allow water infiltration, repair or replace the siding. If not seriously damaged, leave it for later in the process.

3. Demolition
Depending on the scale of your renovations and the condition of the house, demolition might be the first step.

* Rent a large container for waste.
* Carefully demolish all or some of the areas of the house that will be renovated. Demolish as much as possible if you will not be living in the house.
* Exercise caution when demolishing surfaces coated with lead-based paint.

4. Structural Carpentry
At this time, call in the carpenters for major carpentry projects. Things like:

* Moving walls.
* Constructing new walls.
* Significantly enlarging window openings.
* Adding beams to support a greater weight upstairs.
* Punching in new doors (or removing existing doors).
* Adding new construction windows.

5. HVAC Ductwork, Electrical, and Plumbing
With the walls and ceiling open, it's time for the HVAC company to install ductwork for central heating and air conditioning. Also with the walls accessible, run new electrical and plumbing systems. Electrical and plumbing inspectors will visit at this time, too.
6. Insulation
Last thing to do with the walls open: install fiberglass batt insulation in the walls and attic. Insulation goes fast, so give your drywaller a call and let him know he's next up.
7. Drywall

* A second inspection from the electrical inspector (and perhaps the plumbing inspector) will give you the go-ahead to close up the walls.
* Drywallers hang sheets of drywall, apply drywall compound, and let the compound dry. After drying, they sand it smooth. Sometimes, they will repeat the process until they achieve a seamless surface.

8. Flooring
Installing the flooring later in the renovation process saves your flooring surface from significant damage.
9. Windows
Install replacement windows.
10. Fine Carpentry
Here's where you introduce carpentry that doesn't involve structural issues. Install baseboards, molding, trim around windows and doors, built-in elements (bookcases, breakfast nooks, etc.).
11. Interior Painting, Wallpaper, and Other Surface Finishes
Painting interior walls, hanging wallpaper, painting molding and trim, staining and sealing trim: all of these detail-oriented surface finishes should be the last items you do indoors.
12. Siding, Gutters
With the house mostly finished, it's safe to put on siding. You don't want to do this earlier (unless absolutely necessary) because doors and windows may get punched out, ruining the siding.
13. Major Auxiliary Building
Last, do major auxiliary building projects like:

* Additions
* Sunrooms
* Swimming pools

Large building projects like additions should come last. My view is that you do this last so you don't deplete all of your money and energy on projects not related to renovating the house itself. However, an alternate view is that you may want to build an addition very early in the process so that you don't ruin any work you do in the main part of the house.
More Home Renovation Articles

How to Renovate a Kitchen

2009-01-05T10:19:00.002+07:00

By Lee Wallender, About.com

Why Do You Want to Remodel Your Kitchen?
Kitchen renovation is a hot topic. This tutorial assumes a top-to-bottom remodel. But if you're interested in something less, you'll find a ton of great information about all aspects of kitchen renovation. Ask yourself:

1. What Are My Needs and Desires?
Is your kitchen a disaster zone where you can't even manage to boil an egg? Or do you just want to freshen the place up with new applicances, countertops, floors, and cabinets?

2. Is It Worth Putting Myself Through This?
Do you want work crews in your house for extended periods? Do you want to spend money and put yourself through this turmoil? While one of the more expensive home renovation projects, kitchen remodels retain their value well should you decide to sell your house.

3. Deep-Down Renovation or Surface-Level?
Be honest. Is this a $85,000 full-scale kitchen remodel or a less ambitious surface-level kitchen renovation? No shame in either choice.

4. How Can I Reduce the Cost of Remodeling?
Think about this now before you get too involved in the project. From doing it yourself to limiting your need for contractors, there are tons of ways to save money.

This is the fun part. When you design your kitchen, you get to exercise your creative muscle while your house is still clean and in one piece.

For ease of movement, plan your kitchen workflow around the classic kitchen triangle.

While you have an almost infinite range of possibilities, you may want to utilize one of the five basic kitchen design plans, such as:

* The One-Wall Design
* The Corridor Design
* The L-Shape Design
* The Double-L Design
* The U-Shape Design

How to Design Your Kitchen

* Kitchen Design Software
Inexpensive computer design software helps you with the difficult task of space-planning.
* Book-Based Design Packages
Available at bookstores, these kits have cardboard punch-outs representing cabinets and appliances. Placing punch-outs on a kitchen grid helps you realistically view your available space.
* Kitchen Designers
Kitchen designers at home improvement companies or at kitchen design stores typically design your kitchen free of charge. However, they will steer you to their own vendors and to their own work crews. Independent designers will have the most freedom and may give you the best product because they have less restrictions. However, they will charge you either by the hour or on a percentage basis.

You're got great ideas. But how to turn these ideas into reality?

* Hiring a Contractor.
Find a licensed contractor who deals extensively with residential kitchen remodeling. Commissions based on the price of the project range from 15%-25%.
* Doing It Yourself.
Renovating the kitchen by yourself, you spend no money on labor charges but you may slow down your project as you learn skills necessary to remodeling.
* Acting as Your Own Contractor.
A tempting option. You hire carpenters, electricians, plumbers, and other sub-contractors yourself and save the contractor's high commission. But this puts a lot of work on your shoulders.

You should apply for permits now. Permits must be obtained from different agencies. Your city or county may administer the electrical, plumbing, and building permits. Your water company may also need to permit any work relating to water supply and drainage. If a contractor is handling the renovation, he will obtain your permits. If you are doing it yourself, start by calling your local city or county permitting agency.

Demolition
Something has to go. Something as small as those nasty laminated counters or as major as that load-bearing wall blocking the view of the living room. Kitchen materials may contain hazardous materials such as lead-based paint and asbestos, both of which require special handling. After that, you need to haul away the waste material and dispose of it. Waste stations may not accept hazardous materials, so you should first check up with them about acceptable waste.
Building and Repairing
Depending on your new kitchen's configuration, you may be taking on major construction tasks. Are you adding or replacing windows? Or removing windows to increase cabinet space? How about taking down walls to open up the kitchen to the rest of the house? Even minor kitchen remodeling may need joists strengthened to support heavier appliances or built-ins such as a kitchen island.

Wall Framing 101: What is Behind Your Drywall?

2009-01-05T10:12:00.003+07:00

By Lee Wallender, About.com

When you are undertaking huge home remodeling projects, it is almost impossible to avoid dealing with wall moving, demolition, and construction. Before you do anything with your walls, understand a few things about wall framing.

”Walls are Made of Two-by-Fours, Right?
The main type of lumber for walls is the 2x4, also called a stud. These studs are mostly arranged vertically.
“I Know that Walls are Either Load-Bearing or Non Load-Bearing…”
Yes. And there are no exceptions to this rule. A load-bearing wall supports the weight of the house above it; the non load bearing wall supports only its own weight.

"How Far Apart are the Studs?
Non load-bearing walls can have vertical studs spaced as far apart as 24 inches on center. After all, why not? They are only supporting the weight of drywall and some electrical and plumbing work within. Load-bearing walls are quite a big deal, and codes take them seriously. This (mainly) predictable spacing lets you easily find studs when trying to hang a shelf. Generally, load bearing walls have studs spaced at 16 inches on center. Also, headers are shorter.
”Headers? What Do Headers Do?”
Headers are those horizontal members that run across the top of doors, windows, entryways, etc. Headers are important because they support weight that ordinarily would have been supported by vertical studs in that space.

The reason you should care about headers is that they give you air and light. The wider the header above the window, the larger the window. Thus, more air and light. Also, within the house: a sturdy header above the door between kitchen and living room can help tie the two rooms together.
”Can You Remove a Non Load Bearing Wall without Taking Extra Precautions?
As for structural precautions: generally not. However, you need to realize that you must be careful in case live electrical wires or plumbing run thorough. Non load bearing walls are sometimes called partition walls. Over time, previous homeowners may have foolishly added features to the house which use the partition walls for support.

Even though they should not have done this, you need to be aware of this and not assume that all partition walls are not bearing weight or providing some kind of sideways strength. This is the point where I issue a word of caution: before removing any wall, consult a licensed contractor or structural engineer. Even the pricey fee for a structural engineer is far less than the cost of repairing a collapsed roof.

Hanging a Door: Make the Doorframe Fit Door, Not Vice-Versa

2009-01-05T10:06:00.004+07:00

By Lee Wallender, About.com

One trick you can use when re-hanging a is to configure the trim around the door.

First a word of explanation. If you have never worked with old doors within an old house, you may have the reasonable assumption that a door which you remove can be replaced in the same spot on a one-for-one basis. After all, the door has been hanging there for 70 years. How hard can it be to re-hang?

Why Remove a Door?

There are many reasons you may need to remove a door. If you are re-finishing and painting your doors, about the only way to do it is to remove the door and put it up on sawhorses. Sanding floors also entails removing doors and re-hanging them.

It's not so bad if the door is hung on the same hinges, and you have done nothing more than remove the pins from the hinges. Also, if you have basically left the door frame structure untouched, the re-hanging process should not be so difficult.

"Uh, Oh - The Door Doesn't Fit"

But the very minute that you start doing anything more than a simple repainting job is when it gets difficult. I have spent countless hours trying to get doors to fit into door frames. Sometimes, it is virtually impossible, because the door frames get "out of square" when the house's foundation subsides (more correctly, "out of rectangle"). So, it's not your fault at all if the door doesn't fit well.

So what you want to do is knock off all of the trim around the door, hang the door, and then build trim that follows the configuration of the door. Just remember that you need clearance. The door should clear the finish flooring by about 1/2". Keep in mind that this is the finish flooring, not the substrate. So, if it's just substrate (or sub-floor) right now, and you hang the door with a 1/2" clearance, it will drag once the finish flooring is installed.

Refinishing Your Bathtub

2009-01-05T09:15:00.005+07:00

Not a Liner, Not a Replacement: Why You Might Want to Refinish Your Tub

By Lee Wallender, About.com

Got a yucky bathtub? Visit a home improvement store and you note that a new bathtub is inexpensive--less than $200. How hard can this be to replace? But add in the cost of a contractor, demolition, removal, landfill fees, tilers, and a plumber, and the total cost of the job has ballooned.

You can install an acrylic liner, but it is still costly and it only covers up your bathroom problems. Compared to all that, refinishing your tub looks pretty good.

The Truth: Refinishing Bathtub is Painting
Refinishing is a hire-the-pro project. DIY is great for many things, but it is virtually impossible to do a decent bathtub refinishing job by yourself. Porcelain, fiberglass, and cast-iron tubs can all be refinished.
Bathtub Stays in Your House--No Removal Needed
One huge selling point of bathtub refinishing is that the bathtub does not need to be--and should not be--removed and taken to a shop. Refinishing is done on-site. Most refinishing technicians are highly aware of the fact that they are in a private residence, so they take many precautions to minimize overspray and other mess.
Quick Overview of Tub Refinishing Process
After masking and dropcloths are set up, the tub is repaired (nicks and holes filled), primed, sealed, and painted with a highly durable, glossy top-coat of any color you choose.

Surprised that it is paint? The two biggest bathtub refinishing companies I spoke to like to call the substance a "coating," rather than paint. Look at it however you want, but rid your mind of the idea that bathtub refinishing is a duplication of the tub's original dip-coat. In some cases, you can send a valuable cast iron tub off-site for a new dip-coat--but this is not what we refer to as bathtub refinishing.
The Two Big Names: Miracle Method and Permaglaze

What brings down refinishing--sometimes called reglazing--costs is the fact that competition for refinishing business is fierce. Searching for refinishing companies, you will find:

* Miracle Method, with about 120 U.S. locations.
* Permaglaze, with 50-60 U.S. locations.
* Countless independent, local companies whose quality may be higher or lower than the national franchises.

Details of the Professional Bathtub Refinishing Process
The tub reglazing process is different between the two national tub refinishing franchises, Miracle Method or Permaglaze, as well as the local, non-franchised companies. However, there is some common ground:

1. Clean bathtub and remove caulking.
2. Mask around the bath tub and cover areas not to be refinished.
3. Remove fixtures and overflow cover.
4. Set up ventilation fan to vent overspray and odor outside.
5. Lightly sand entire bathtub.
6. Depending on the service you choose, the tub may also be etched with acid to help the coatings adhere.
7. Vacuum bathtub.
8. Fill chipped, scratched, or worn areas, then sand smooth. If there is extensive damage, the restorer may charge nominal extra fees for this.
9. Put down drop-cloths and covers over cabinets, sinks, fixtures, toilet, etc.
10. Spray-paint up to 3 coats of a primer; let dry.
11. Between 3-4 layers of top coat mixture are spray-painted.
12. Miracle Method comes back a few days later for a final buffing. Permaglaze does not do this because they say that their process does not lead to imperfections that would necessitate buffing.

Tub is ready to use within 48 hours. Your new coat is durable but not as durable as the original coating. As a result, do not clean with any abrasive cleaners such as Comet.

Do-it-yourself bathtub refinishing is possible, but not recommended. You employ essentially the same materials as the professionals, but you don't use the professional-level spray-gun.

Instead, you use a brush or small roller. Armorpoxy is the most prominent company selling do-it-yourself brush-on kits. They offer a quart of epoxy with hardener, latex gloves, steel wool, brush, cleaning solution, cleaner/thinner, and safety goggles. It comes in white but can be tinted (tint not included).

It's less expensive than other methods, but I still do not consider it a cheap alternative. Also, I'm a bit wary of brushing or rolling on bathtub paint. There's simply no way you can get a nice, smooth glossy coat with a roller or brush.
Summary--Bathtub Refinishing Options

* New Tub If Remodeling. If you're already ripping up your bathroom for other repairs, go ahead and put in a new tub. It's your cheapest option.
* Don't Spray. Unless you're a highly experienced painter (work in an auto body shop perhaps?), leave the spraying to the pros.
* Competition is Good. There are so many companies competing for your bathtub refinishing business, you can most likely swing a good deal.
* Rollers/brushes Don't Work. Don't cheap out with the brush or roll-on method.