Because garages are typically much larger than sheds, building permits are usually required and the structure must be built to code. In many ways, garage construction is very similar to that of a house.
The foundation for the garage is usually some form of slab. Walls are typically built in sections and raised one at a time. They are braced temporarily upright and secured to the foundation with a mudsill that's attached with concrete anchors.
Rough openings are placed wherever doors or windows are to be installed; headers at the top replace the support that would have been provided by the wall studs.
Ceiling joists span the walls and hold them together; rafters are attached to ceiling joists and the ridge board to form the roof. The rafters are covered with sheathing, roofing felt, and shingles.
Windows and doors are installed, and exterior sheathing, siding, or shingles are added, along with the exterior trim to complete the garage.
By:HomeTips.com
You want your family and your property protected from any harm, be it a home intrusion or fire. Fortunately, home protection has become simpler yet more sophisticated.
House alarm systems are about peace of mind, ensuring the safety of your family and your property while dissuading potential intruders. Unfortunately, most people only consider a house alarm system when they’ve just been robbed.
The most common type of home protection is the house alarm. Security alarms have sensors that are connected to a control unit via either a high-voltage hardwire or narrowband radio-frequency signal, which interacts with a response device. The most common types of security sensors indicate the opening of a door or window or detect passive smoke. Most infrared sensors are for indoor use only. Outside sensors are available but are costlier and are not false alarm–proof.
If there is an unauthorized entry, an active alarm system sends a signal to a central monitoring station, which monitors systems every minute of every day. If necessary, the central monitoring station alerts local police to send an officer to your home.
Quality alarm systems combine audible and silent alarms triggered by sensors placed throughout the home, not just on doors and windows. It is recommended to use a combination of both hardwired and wireless sensor technologies for fewer false alarms. Some alarm companies do not offer the wireless option, even though it is the easier of the two types to install.
Entry-level wired systems utilize a “star network” topology where the panel is placed centrally and all devices “home run” their wires back to the panel. Installation of a hardwired system is obviously much cheaper if wiring already exists in the home.
If no pre-wiring exists, wireless is a less costly option because installers do not have to drill any holes, lift any carpets, nor string any wires throughout the house. Wireless systems, however, do require frequent changes of lithium batteries, and the system is less effective without this diligence. One or two wireless repeaters may be required to get the signal reliably back to the alarm panel. Wireless systems are also easier to expand outdoors because they do not require any ditches to be dug.
The main control panel for an alarm system is usually hidden in a closet or garage because hiding the “main brains“ lowers the risk of a burglar disabling the system. A keypad is placed inside the house, usually by the front door, where residents can easily arm or disarm the system as they come and go. Another keypad placed by the bedrooms allows for convenient arming of the system at night.
By : HomeTips.com
When summer rolls around, a swimming pool often becomes the focus of family activities. Unfortunately, most children lack a healthy respect for the water's potential danger, and curiosity draws them near. In states where pools are numerous, there are even more fatalities to young children from drowning than from traffic accidents.
For this reason, it makes sense to teach children how to swim as soon as is possible. Do not rely on baby's swimming lessons, though.
Throughout childhood, whether or not they can swim, children should be watched at the pool by an adult capable of rescuing them'one adult per each nonswimmer.
Safeguarding the pool area. Kids, by nature, try to foil whatever barriers adults set up. For safety's sake around a pool, create several backups to ensure that neither your child nor neighborhood kids can gain access to your pool.
Among your choices are fences and gates (a building code requirement in many communities), a pool cover, and an alarm that gives a last-minute warning.
Pool covers. Designed to keep kids out, pool covers are probably the surest barrier if designed and used correctly. A good pool cover must be able to support an adult's weight.
To keep children out of the water reliably, the pool cover should attach securely in place. If rainwater collects, pump or drain the water away immediately; just a few inches of water in a sagging pool cover can endanger a small child.
When people are swimming in the pool, remove the cover completely to eliminate the chance someone could become trapped under it. And whenever adults are not at poolside, lock the cover in place.
Fences. A standard cover may not fit a pool that is very large or irregularly shaped. Even with a cover, a child-safe pool should be fenced to keep it securely off limits between supervised swims. Keep furniture and any similar objects that could be used for climbing away from the fence.
A self-closing, self-latching gate assures that the gate won't be accidentally left open. A lockable gate provides extra security.
Pool fences are often regulated, sometimes stringently, by building codes. Usually, the fence must be 5 to 6 feet high, with slats or uprights spaced no wider than 4 inches. If a side of the house or other building serves as a portion of the pool area fence, it should have no doors or windows. Fencing must also stand far enough from the pool's edge to allow safe passage'at least 3 feet. Check with your local building department for other requirements.
Alarms. One type of pool alarm screeches when a heavy object, such as a person, falls into the water (the wave that results sets off the alarm). But you would have to be relatively close in order for the alarm to provide a safe warning. And the alarm needs regular testing. Also, the sensitive mechanism may give you heart-
wrenching false alarms.
Another type of alarm system for pools shoots a light beam around the water's perimeter (the same method is used at the entrance to some stores). The sound activates if the beam is broken.
Again, you must be close enough to hear the alarm, but this kind gives you a warning before your child plunges into the water. False alarms can be a nuisance.
Pool equipment. Locate the pool heater, filter, and other equipment behind sturdy fencing or walls at least 5 feet high. Keep pool chemicals far from children's reach, preferably locked away.
Pool area upkeep. Have the pool deck repaired promptly if damaged. If it's especially slippery, coat it with a nonslip surfacing material. Move away steps to an above-ground pool when the pool is not in use.
Use only unbreakable plates and glasses at poolside, never glass. Keep all toys'particularly balls'away from the area.
Protect all electrical outlets and equipment, as well as circuits for support equipment, with ground fault circuit interrupters. Test your GFCls monthly. Inspect electrical equipment frequently and do not use the pool until any needed repairs are made. Do not allow electrical appliances inside the fenced pool area.
Keep a telephone near the pool so you don't have to go indoors to answer a call. Keep emergency numbers posted on the telephone.
TIP: Inflatable rings and other similar water toys should not be considered reliable life preservers.
Safe Pool Use
When small children are in the pool area, watch them continuously; never leave, even for a minute. Mark the pool's deep end with a rope supported by floats and don't allow nonswimmers or young beginning swimmers to go beyond the rope.
Another sound safety measure is to insist that young nonswimmers wear life preservers, also called personal flotation devices, or PFDs, while in the pool area. When buying a PFD, look for "USCG (U.S. Coast Guard) approved" on the label. If there are several children or you're having a party, protect all the children'including those who can swim'with a PFD even while you're standing nearby.
Post pool rules near the pool (see below). Keep a first-aid kit handy as well as life-saving equipment'life ring with 3/16-inch rope and a 10-foot rescue (shepherd's) hook. Learn lifesaving and cardio-pulmonary resuscitation (CPR) from a local hospital, American Red Cross chapter, or other community resource.
Make sure that the pool's water has been correctly treated so that it's clean but not irritating from concentrated chlorine. Never use the pool when an automatic pool cleaner is operating because its hoses can entangle a young swimmer.
Spa & Hot Tub Safety
The hot, bubbly fun of a spa can delight children as much as it does their parents, and a family soak is a cozy experience.
But, besides the possibility of drowning, the water in a hot tub or spa poses another danger to young children. Even at a temperature moderate for adults, water can scald young, sensitive skin. For infants and young children, keep the water temperature no higher than 95' F. and the soaking time no longer than 10 minutes. Introduce the child slowly to the hot water to be sure there's no discomfort or fear.
Also keep in mind that the strong circulating action of the pump can quickly pull a child off balance, so your safest option is to turn off the pump while soaking with your child. Beware of some older spas, which have floor drains that create such strong suction that small children can be pulled underwater (see your dealer about replacing the drain). Maintain the spa's cleanliness as rigorously as you would the pool. A spa also needs the same protective fencing or sturdy locking cover.
Suggested Pool Rules
Listed below are a few rules that will help ensure the safety of young children in or near a swimming pool. But they also apply to anyone using a pool, no matter what the age or skill level.
* Nonswimmers must be accompanied in the water by an adult who can swim'one adult to each nonswimming child.
* Children may not enter the pool area without an adult who can swim.
* No one may ever swim alone.
* No running, pushing, or rough play is allowed in or near the pool.
* No diving is allowed unless the pool has an area designed for it.
* Glass and electrical appliances are not allowed in the pool area because of the risks of injury or electrocution.
* No one may swim if ill or injured; bacteria can contaminate water.
* No swimming is allowed during a thunderstorm because water attracts lightning.
* Night swimming is not recommended unless children are closely supervised by adult swimmers in a well-lit pool.
TIP: Make sure to post pool rules--as well as CPR instructions--where they are easily visible.
By : HomeTips.com
Have you been thinking about repainting your home’s exterior? Here are seven tips that will make your work easier, safer, and more likely to produce pride-inspiring results.
1) Evaluate doing it yourself
Painting is one of those jobs that requires only a moderate level of skill and a few basic tools. By doing the work yourself, you can usually save more than half the cost of the job. But should you do the work yourself? That depends on a number of factors, including your experience, fitness, available time, and the difficulty of working on your home’s exterior walls.
2) Buy quality paint
Choosing high-quality paint is critical to a long-lasting paint job and can make the work far easier. Not only will quality paint weather the years durably, but it is also easier to maintain, and it covers the walls more quickly and easily in the process. Just think about the effort and expense of painting your house—this should make it clear that you don’t want to have to do the job again in four or five years.
3) Repair and prepare
Even high-quality paint won’t guarantee a lasting paint job if you don’t prepare the surfaces properly. Start by repairing damaged siding. Peeling, blistering, wrinkling, and flaking paint must be removed from wood siding by scraping and sanding, ideally with a power sander. Be advised that this is difficult, tiring work, and you must do it carefully so as not to gouge the wood. Always wear a dust mask, gloves, and protective goggles.
4) Mask off
Avoid painting roofing and other surfaces by masking with plastic sheeting and 3-inch masking tape. Use dropcloths to protect walkways, shrubs, and other surfaces from dripping paint. You’ll be painting the siding first and then the trim; after the siding is painted, mask the siding around the trim. Be sure to remove the masking tape immediately after painting, before it forms a stubborn bond.
5) Paint surfaces from the top down
Begin with the gutters, fascia, and eaves and work your way down the main surfaces, painting in 3- to 4-foot-square sections. Use a high-quality 4-inch brush. If your home has lap siding, first draw the bristles along the bottom edges of three or four boards and then paint the surfaces in line with the boards. Regularly check for and correct drips and streaks; they are much more difficult to clean up after the paint dries.
6) Paint trim in the proper order
Use a 2-inch angled trim brush to paint trim, always working in line with the wood’s grain. With a window, begin with the muntins and then paint the stiles, rails, head casing, side casings, and the sill. Sometimes it’s easiest to paint a door on sawhorses, after removing it. Otherwise just paint it in place, over a dropcloth. Start with the inset panels, panel moldings and recesses, horizontal rails, and then vertical stiles and mullion. When painting along glass, don’t bother to mask it if you have a steady hand. Just let the paint lap onto the glass by about 1/16 inch and then remove the wet paint from the glass with a rag wrapped around the end of a putty knife. Use a razor blade to remove any residual paint after it dries.
7) Clean up properly
Use soap and water for latex paints or paint thinner for alkyd paints to thoroughly clean your brushes and gear right after painting. Don’t pour paint thinner or excess paint down the drain or onto the ground—this is a serious source of ground water pollution. Keep it in an old sealed paint can and dispose of it at a toxic waste collection site.
Before you begin painting an entire wall or ceiling with a roller or a brush, cut in the edges with a 2- to 3-inch trim brush. (Use a foam brush for glaze.) If the wall and ceiling will be different colors, you can mask the edges of whichever surface you are not working on or use an edge guide to keep paint from straying.
If you are using flat or eggshell latex paint, you can cut in the entire room before painting the open spaces. For semigloss or gloss latex or for any alkyd paint, you will get better results if you cut in a small section and then fill it in before moving to the next area. Also, do not let the edge of one section dry before starting on another; this will leave you with a demarcation line.
If you are using the same paint for the ceiling and wall, you can paint several inches out from the ceiling-to-wall connection on both sides. If you are using different colors or types of paint, cut in and paint the ceiling first.
For a ceiling, cut in first where the ceiling meets the wall, working all the way around the room. Then cut in around any hanging fixtures.
For a wall, cut in first along the ceiling. Next, move along the vertical edges and above the baseboard, then around the door and window frames, and finally around any light fixtures, outlets, or other fixed items on the wall.
If your plumbing experience has been limited to turning a faucet on and off, you may be pleasantly surprised at the simplicity of the system behind that faucet.
Home plumbing is largely a network of pipes and the fittings that connect them, carrying water in and out of the house by two basic forces of nature: pressure and gravity. Water fixtures'sinks, tubs, showers and toilets'and such appliances as dishwashers and washing machines tap into this system, receiving fresh water from one set of pipes and discharging used water through another.
Here's a first look at the basic terms and concepts you'll need to know when evaluating, repairing, or extending your home's plumbing system.
The water cycle
Plumbing is closely tied to both weather and geography. Water that enters your home starts way up in the sky, falling to earth as rain or snow. It flows in a stream or river to a lake or manmade reservoir or percolates down into the water table'which is like a river or lake, only underground. The water then travels through a treatment plant, pumping station, and/or local water tower to a water main and meter or from a private well that taps into the local water table. Fresh water enters the house via a main cold water pipe and flows, under pressure, out of whatever faucet has been turned on.
Where does used water go? So-called 'gray water' and waste leave the house and head for the city sewer or a private septic system. This sewage moves by gravity'each point in the system is at a lower slope than the one preceding. From the city sewer, water goes to a treatment plant, which removes waste from water, or to a septic tank, which does the same thing. Water evaporates back ino the sky, where things start all over again.
Three plumbing systems
Now let's peek inside the house. There are really three separate but interdependent pipe systems: supply, drain-waste, and vent. (Drain-waste-vent systems are interconnected and therefore often referred to as the 'DWV system.')
The supply system carries pressurized water from a utility main or private well into your house and around to all the water-using fixtures and appliances. What drives this pressure? There's either an initial 'fall' (such as from a water tower) or a 'push' from a pumping station; displacement does the rest. Because the water is in a closed supply pipe system, it has nowhere to go but along the same path, pushed along by the water behind it. When you open a faucet or valve, water flows out; when you close it, the flow stops until the next time you open it.
The drain-waste system transports gray water and waste out of the house into a city sewer or septic tank outside the house perimeter. Tub and sink drains flow by gravity only; toilets use a combination of pressure (falling water) and gravity. If waste needs to flow uphill at any point, such as from a basement bathroom, an electric pump helps push it up.
The vent system carries away noxious sewer gasses. When a drainpipe is empty, sewer gasses rise up the vent pipe and out the roof. P- or S-shaped pipe bends, called traps, below each drain remain filled with just enough water to prevent sewer gasses from seeping out the drain into your home. The vent system also helps maintain atmospheric pressure in the drain system to help wastes flow downhill. It works on the same principle as the second hole on a gas can.
By : HomeTips.com
All new room air conditioners are required to carry an EER, or Energy Efficiency Rating, which ranges from 8 to 11.5. The ranking is important for consumers because air conditioners with higher EERs yield the most savings in monthly electric bills. The higher EER also helps the environment by reducing greenhouse emissions. Check the yellow Energy Guide label on new room air conditioners when you’re shopping. A rating of 10 or higher will produce the most in energy savings, though these models are likely to cost a little more.
Many of the energy-efficient features in room air conditioners also offer greater convenience and comfort:
Variable fan speeds. More speed settings give you greater control of air flow. The lower settings also help save money.
Digital temperature control. The ability to control temperature by degrees—instead of with HIGH or LOW settings—allows for more comfort and wastes less energy.
Programmable thermostat. You may want to pay a little more for an AC unit that lets you program desired settings for different times of the day and night.
Easy-to-access filters. Slide-out filters are easy to clean and remove dust and other allergens from the air. Regular maintenance will extend the service life of your air conditioner and help it operate at full efficiency.
Sleep setting/energy-saving setting. The unit operates at a very low setting, making the room more comfortable for sleeping and at the same time saving on energy costs.
Timer. Timers are a simpler and less costly alternative to programmable thermostats. Just set the time you want the AC to start or stop. Timers let you come home to a house that already is cool, without continuously running the air conditioner while you’re away.
The most common "repair" of a light fixture is complete replacement. And by the time a light fixture wears out to the point where it no longer works properly, it's usually time to update the look. Fortunately, replacement is easy, although a new fixture may have mounting hardware that does not match your existing hardware. If you have to install new mounting hardware and the fixture is heavy—a large chandelier, for example—be sure to mount the hardware to the ceiling joists, which can handle the weight. If there are more than two black and white wires for the wiring connection, label the wires with tape before detaching them from the old fixture.
To replace a fixture, first shut off the power to the circuit. Be aware that, although you've turned off the circuit and the switch doesn't operate the light, there may be live (hot) wires in the ceiling box. Don't touch any bare wires until you can test them with a circuit tester to make sure they're off.
Unscrew the bulb and then remove the nuts that hold the ceiling canopy or fixture in place. Carefully lower the canopy or fixture to expose the wires. Unscrew the wire nuts (without touching bare wire ends).
Place the two probes of a circuit tester on the white and black wires simultaneously to be sure they're off. Then lower the fixture away from the wires.
Install the new fixture according to the package directions--in most cases, you just strip about 1/2 inch of the protective insulation from the new wire ends, twist them together with the circuit wires (white to white and black to black), and finish by twisting on the wire nuts. Many fixtures also have a grounding screw that should receive a bare grounding wire.
By : HomeTips.com
Bamboo flooring is a hard, stable, and reliable flooring material with a pleasingly exotic appearance. Bamboo flooring has several unique qualities. For one, it has exceptional pliability that allows it to sustain blunt impacts without denting or bending—in this attribute it surpasses most hardwood materials. In addition to its superior elasticity, bamboo is surprisingly hard. It has a Janka hardness rating of about 1800, which is considerably harder than that of white oak (1360) and hard maple (1450).
Because bamboo grows in tropical regions, it has an organic resistance to water. But it does expand and contract with changes in its moisture content, and it can stain. If you’re going to use bamboo in a bathroom or a kitchen, it may be wise to apply an extra coat of polyurethane or wax following installation to ensure a permanently flush and stain-free surface. Check with the flooring manufacturer and/or your installer for the right products to choose.
As with regular wood floors, bamboo flooring comes in solid and engineered tongue-and-groove strips and planks, which means there are bamboo options available for both plywood and concrete subfloors. Because of the thinness of the bamboo stalks, solid-bamboo flooring is actually composed of bamboo strips that have been laminated together. Engineered-bamboo flooring has a veneer of bamboo over layers of plywood. There are also “click-together” varieties that are assembled simply by snapping flooring pieces together, but be forewarned that these often do not bear as professional a look once they are installed.
Although bamboo is naturally light in color, it can be darkened by steam and pressure in a process called carbonization. (Do be aware that carbonization is said to soften bamboo by as much as 30 percent, resulting in a flooring product that may be less resilient.) Some manufacturers also offer a range of stained bamboo flooring, as well as hand-scraped options.
While bamboo flooring is now widely available, not all bamboo is created equal. Low-cost bamboo is generally made from stalks that have yet to fully mature, which means the plant has not developed the density needed to make an acceptable floor and will easily mar and dent.
Because bamboo is type of grass that renews every few years, it is considered an environmentally friendly product. For more information about how bamboo flooring is a “green” option, read Sustainable Wood Flooring.
By : HomeTips.com
With so many models and features available, selecting a new refrigerator can feel like an overwhelming task. Here are some things to consider before you even step foot in the store.
The first, and perhaps most important step, is to measure how much space you have for your refrigerator. This includes both the space where your appliance will sit, as well as how far out into the room it will expand when its doors are open. Remember to include about an inch of clearance at the top and sides of your appliance.
You will also have to consider how much storage capacity your family requires. Refrigerator storage capacity runs from about 18 to 28 cubic feet, which includes the space occupied by shelves and hardware. (Consumer Reports notes that the actual usable capacity could be as much as 35 percent less than the storage capacity claimed by the manufacturer, particularly with side-by-side models.) Couples or small families may find that a model with 18 to 22 cubic feet of storage will suit their needs, but larger families or those who enjoy entertaining may need more space.
Next, you should consider what type of door configuration you would prefer. Options include the classic side-by-side (with the refrigerator and freezer vertical to each other) and top-mount models (with the freezer above the refrigerator compartment). Bottom-mount models, which place the freezer at the bottom of the unit, are becoming increasing popular, in part because they generally offer more space than a side-by-side model and, unlike a top-mount refrigerator, put the most used compartment, the refrigerator area, at a comfortable, eye-level height. There are bottom-mount models with a single door for the refrigerated area as well as the relatively recent French-door design.
Once you’ve decided upon your basic needs, think about which convenience features are most important to your family. Do you need an in-door ice-and-water dispenser? Glide-out baskets and shelves in your freezer compartment? Humidity controls for your deli and vegetable-crisper storage areas? For more help navigating the plethora of options you will have to choose from, see Features to Look for When Buying a Refrigerator.
Of course, purchasing an energy-efficient refrigerator is wise, especially considering that refrigerators are among the most energy-consuming appliances in the home. Always look for the Energy Star seal. (Read more about what to look for in How to Find an Energy-Efficient Refrigerator, and discover how to conserve energy once you have purchased your appliance in Refrigerator Energy-Saving Tips.)
When it comes to aesthetics, you will have a choice among black, white, almond, and stainless-steel (or lookalike) finishes. Consider the look of your kitchen and your other appliances, but also know that a stainless-steel refrigerator, which bears a professional appearance, could increase your home’s resale value. Some manufacturers now offer faux stainless-steel finishes that are easier to keep clean (fingerprints and smudges occur easily and often on true stainless steel) and sometimes come at lower price points.
Speaking of cost, it pays to do your homework. Once you know what you want, research your choices both at local appliance stores and online. Read consumer reports, ratings, and reviews. Always ask about and factor in delivery and installation expenses if purchasing your product locally or shipping costs if you are buying your appliance online. And if you don’t mind some minor blemishes, consider purchasing a refrigerator with some small scratches or dents. Dealers sometimes sell products with such cosmetic defects at significantly discounted prices.
Finally, always look for a model with a good warranty, which should cover your appliance’s parts for one year and its sealed refrigeration system for five years.
Because of their exceedingly high water temperatures as well as the heavy use they get, spas tend to require frequent maintenance to keep them clean. The best tools for keeping a spa clean are basically the same as those used to clean swimming pools—just on a smaller scale.
Leaf skimmer. As in a pool, this long- handled net is necessary for removing large pieces of floating debris.
Vacuum. A spa vacuum can be powered in several ways. If your spa is not connected to the circulation system of an in-ground pool, a good solution is a vacuum that’s powered by a jet of water from a garden hose.
Spa wand. A more streamlined alternative to a vacuum, a spa wand also collects debris through suction. It may be powered either by pumping or turning the handle or by a rechargeable battery.
Bucket and soft sponge. These two low-tech tools are a must for cleaning interior spa walls.
Skimming and vacuuming. Since a spa is so small, even a minimal amount of debris can lower the efficiency of the circulation system. Bring out the skimmer each time you use your spa, and either vacuum or use a spa wand twice a week to remove debris that has settled to the bottom.
Cleaning out the baskets. Debris-free baskets are essential to the proper operation of the circulation system. Clean the skimmers twice a week by removing leaves and anything else obstructing the water flow. With in-ground spas, the strainer baskets are hidden in the surrounding deck; for portable spas, the baskets are near the pump.
Cleaning the inner surface. Because total dissolved solids build up quickly, spa water needs to be drained fairly often. Emptying the spa provides an opportunity for cleaning the inner surfaces. Brush the spa interior to eliminate calcium scales and any algae buildup. A plaster-lined concrete spa can withstand stiff brushing, but fiberglass and acrylic spas are more delicate.
To clean tile, don’t use anything very abrasive or stiff that could scratch the tile or damage the grout. A pumice stone works well, removing scale like a giant eraser. A putty knife is also great for scraping off especially heavy scale. Another alternative is to dissolve the scale with a 50/50 mix of water and muriatic acid. (Muriatic acid is extremely corrosive, and its vapors can be toxic if inhaled, so be sure to protect your eyes and hands and work in a well-ventilated area when making the mixture.) Apply the solution with a nylon brush and scrub. Rinse well when you’re finished.
No single water filter technology will eliminate all types of contaminants, but some treatment devices use more than one method to rid water of nearly all contaminants. Once you’ve identified your specific problem, you can choose a water-treatment solution that is right for it.
Reverse-osmosis (RO) filters. For water with multiple contaminants, a reverse-osmosis filter is often the best solution. It will remove inorganic chemicals such as salts, metals (including lead), minerals, nitrates, asbestos, and, because most models include carbon pre-filters and post-filters, catch organic chemicals such as pesticides, as well as trihalomethanes (THMs) and radon. Not all remove chlorine, so if this claim is made, request proof. The carbon post-filter is used to improve the water’s aesthetic properties. Pre- and post-filter cartridges should be replaced annually.
Most RO systems mount beneath the sink and connect directly to the plumbing. A small tank stores clean water until needed, and tainted water drains out through a line connected to the sink trap. With most, drinking water flows through a special, separate sink-top spout or may be routed to an ice maker or water cooler.
Conventional RO filters waste about 3 gallons for every gallon of pure water they produce; some have an automatic valve that prevents excessive waste. RO filters generally cost from $400 to $600.
Distillers. Another device that will remove almost everything from water is a distiller. Distillers electrically heat water until it turns into steam; the steam then condenses and turns back into water in a separate chamber, leaving behind 99 percent of the health- and aesthetic-related pollutants.
Countertop models must be filled manually, use a lot of electricity, and may take several hours to produce 1 gallon of water, but they are relatively inexpensive at from $100 to $300.
Activated carbon (AC) filters. If your water tastes, smells, or looks bad, a filter containing activated carbon (AC) will probably make it much more palatable. Many AC filters also remove chlorine, pesticides, herbicides, radon, THMs, and some inorganic chemicals, but not all carbon filters effectively reduce lead content. If you’re concerned about lead, be sure the unit you’re considering is certified for lead removal. Solid-block and precoat absorption filters trap lead.
Though a carbon filter will remove mercury, don’t count on a conventional one to remove all metals, salts, nitrates and nitrites, and organisms. In fact, be aware that a carbon filter will accumulate the contaminants it cleans from water, and the resulting bacteria may even breed in it, so it’s very important to replace filter cartridges religiously, according to the manufacturer’ s recommendations.
Effectiveness of a particular carbon unit is directly related to the amount of activated carbon it contains. Beneath-the-counter systems with dual filters typically cost from $100 to $200. The $30 faucet-end models are only marginally effective. Whole-house point-of-entry (POE) systems, recommended where a contaminant such as radon poses a threat to the entire house, cost $500 or more.
Ultraviolet (UV) disinfection devices may kill bacteria and viruses, and improve the taste and odor of water, but they are not effective against chemical pollutants and may not work against cysts and spores. In some carbon filter units, ultraviolet is used to kill bacteria.
The American Society of Heating, Refrigerating, and Air Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) has generated the following list of actions homeowners can take to achieve good indoor air quality:
1) Fossil fuel–fired water heaters and furnaces should use sealed combustion or be power- vented. When natural-draft appliances are used, they should be properly vented and be outside the occupiable space when possible.
2) Vent bathrooms, kitchens, toilets, and laundry rooms directly outdoors. Use energy-efficient and quiet fans.
3) Avoid locating furnaces, air conditioners, and ductwork in garages or other spaces where they could draw contaminants into the house. Install an automatic door closer on any door from the house to the garage. To reduce airborne contaminant transport, apply weatherstripping around door edges. If ducts must pass through a garage or other potentially polluted space, seal the ducts well to avoid entrainment of polluted air.
4) Properly vent fireplaces, wood stoves, and other hearth products; use tight doors and outdoor air intakes for these products when possible.
5) Put a particle filter or air cleaner in your air-handling system to keep dirt out of the air and off your ductwork and heating and cooling components. Regularly maintain it or replace it as needed.
6) Vent clothes dryers and central vacuum cleaners directly outdoors.
7) Store volatile compounds such as paints, solvents, cleaners, and pesticides out of the occupiable space and away from ventilation air intakes.
8) Minimize or avoid altogether unvented combustion sources such as candles, cigarettes, indoor barbecues, decorative combustion appliances, and vent-free heaters.
9) Distribute a minimum amount of outdoor air as recommended by ASHRAE 62.2 throughout the home, using whole-house mechanical ventilation.
10) Provide operable windows or other mechanical ventilation to every space to accommodate such events as the use of home cleaning products and hobby activities.
