A wallcovering’s material content determines its durability, cleanability, cost, and ease of installation and removal. Before purchasing any wallpaper, ask about these qualities, as well as about the manufacturer’s guarantees.
Vinyl wallpaper
The most popular wallcoverings are made of a continuous, flexible vinyl film applied to a backing. They are durable, strong, and easy to maintain. Backings may be fabric or paper.
Fabric-backed vinyl, the sturdiest wallpaper, is washable (often scrubbable), moisture resistant, and usually strippable (meaning it can be removed from the wall by hand without leaving any residue). Fabric-backed vinyl usually comes unpasted.
Paper-backed vinyl is lightweight, so it often comes prepasted. Paper-backed expanded vinyl produces a 3D effect and is especially suited to walls that aren’t perfectly smooth. It comes in styles that mimic the look of rough plaster, granite, textured paint, or grass cloth.
Vinyl-coated paper is paper coated with a vinyl layer so thin it looks like paper. It lends a finished look to a wall but is best for light-use areas because it stains and tears more easily than papers that have greater vinyl content.
Textiles
These wallcoverings come in many colors and textures, in styles ranging from very casual to formally elegant. They’re usually made of natural fibers such as cotton or linen, or of polyester bonded to a paper backing.
A traditional favorite is grass cloth, which can be hung horizontally, vertically, or in a combination of the two. Hemp, similar to grass cloth but with thinner fibers, is easier to install.
Hand-screened paper
This vividly colorful paper is more expensive than most machine-printed wallpapers because each color is applied with a separate handmade and hand-placed silk screen. Some newer machine-printed papers have the look of hand-screened ones and are less expensive.
Hanging these types of papers can be tricky. Patterns may match less evenly than many other wallcoverings, and edges often need to be trimmed and double-cut at seams. Also, because water-soluble dyes are often used in their manufacture, great care must be taken to ensure that the printed side is kept free of paste and water.
Solid paper
Paper wallcoverings with no vinyl content tear easily and should only be considered for extremely light-use areas.
Foils & flocks
Foils and flocks (paper resembling damask or cut velvet) can brighten up any small, dark space. They require an absolutely smooth wall surface and can wrinkle easily.
By : HomeTips.com
The French are known for their ability to combine comfort with an unerring sense of style, and Country French decorating is much the same.
Whether a country estate or a second home (called a pied-à-terre), a house in this style might feature mellow oak flooring, hand-painted pottery, iron chandeliers, oversize furniture, vintage linens, and gilded mirrors—all in one room.
Light or bright colors coexist happily with dark wood, and an antique coverlet might be draped on the back of a newly purchased chair.
The key is quality: Choose timeless furnishings with excellent design, and then throw in some quirky favorites, though age isn't nearly as important as beauty, utility, and charm.
• Walls and ceilings. Thickly plastered walls are traditional, but today's homes can replicate that look with faux-finish textures. Paint walls a rich shade of cream, or move toward sunflower gold, terra cotta, grass green, or vibrant blue shades for the look of the Provence region in southern France.
• Floors. Choose natural materials such as oak planks, flagstone, or handmade tile for the most authentic appearance. If wall-to-wall carpeting is already down and it is prohibitive to remove it, then top it with a hooked, hand-loomed, or needlepoint area rug that echoes colors in the room.
• Surfaces. Go for a combination of textures: Pair rough with smooth or aged wood with polished metal. Natural materials (or look-alikes) are preferable. For kitchen countertops, honed marble and limestone are traditional.
• Furniture. Lines are similar to the fancier, even gilded, furniture in the style of Louis XV or Louis XVI. For a more casual and comfortable appearance, the wood is stained or painted and scuffed to look as though it has been passed down for generations. Look for upholstered sofas and armchairs with exposed-wood legs and arms, chests and storage cupboards with curving lines and raised-panel doors, and old farm tables with plank tops.
• Fabrics. Think cotton, linen, velvet, and wool—natural fabrics that feel good to the touch. Patterns include checks; small, geometric motifs; and traditional toile-de-Jouy scenic designs, often printed in only one color against a contrasting background. Include vintage linens, laces, or other antique fabrics on a few pillows.
• Accessories. Display an assortment of handmade pottery glazed in rich colors, as well as assorted copper and the painted-tin known as toleware. Paintings of rural landscapes, farm animals, and seascapes—either realistic or impressionistic—add an authentic touch.
• Details. Each chair should have an ottoman or footstool; this offers wordless permission for guests to get comfortable and put up their feet. Drape a colorful square tablecloth diagonally across the dining table, and center it with flowers loosely arranged in a glass or pottery pitcher.
There are three main types of room air conditioners: window units, through-the-wall units, and portable models. Following is a closer look at each.
Window units are by far the most popular. Models can be installed in most single- or double-hung windows and typically come with accordion panels that allow for a secure fit. Some also fit in sliding windows
Installing a window unit is an easy DIY project. Make sure you measure the inside window dimensions before you shop. Directions and hardware should be included.
Through-the-wall units require opening a hole in an exterior wall, a job that is considerably more involved than installing a window unit. On the plus side, they don’t take up window space, and they allow for a more airtight and secure fit.
Most window models can be installed as through-the-wall units—you just add a frame to support the unit. Small units can be installed by handy do-it-yourselfers. Large through-the-wall units may require professional installation.
Portable air conditioners, self-contained, freestanding units, are the new kids on the block. Most have casters, so they can be wheeled into the room or rooms that need to be cooled. They come with a large, room wall air conditioner unilflexible hose that is attached to a window for exhausting hot air, much like a clothes dryer is vented. Though they tend to cost more than window and through-the-wall units, they are practical because of their portability and can be taken with you when you move.
Air conditioners remove water from the air as they cool it, which means that most portable units have reservoirs that need to be periodically emptied, though some also come with optional hookups for a drainage hose. Some new models evaporate much of the moisture and exhaust it, greatly reducing the frequency of need to empty a container.
By : Hometips.com
The fibers used for a carpet's face yarn dramatically affect its appearance and performance. Here is a look at the carpet fibers used today:
Nylon
Two-thirds of carpet fibers are nylon, a material that offers excellent durability and is wear-, soil-, and mildew-resistant. Nylon fibers are resilient, survive the crushing weight of furniture, and hold up well in heavily trafficked areas. Nylon is available in brilliant colors, and solution-dyed varieties are colorfast. Nylon carpets tend to cost from about $8 to $25 per square yard. At rock-bottom, they run as low as $5; at the high end you can pay $70 per square yard or more.
Olefin
Also known as polypropylene, olefin fibers represent about 30% of the carpet market. Although olefin began as an outdoor carpet fiber thanks to its resistance to moisture and mildew, new advances in its look and feel have made it popular for the house. It is easy to clean, strong, and resists stains, wear, and static electricity.
Olefin fibers are used primarily in multi-level loops, such as berbers, and in low-profile commercial cut piles. Color is added before the material is turned into fiber, making olefin colorfast. Some carpet tiles made of olefin are felt-like in texture; for these, polypropylene fibers are needle-punched into a mesh core. Olefin carpet is comparable in price to nylon; although the fiber is less expensive, more processes are involved in its manufacture.
Polyester
If you like a luxurious, soft, thick-cut pile, polyester may be your best bet. Polyester fibers, known for their soft "hand," have plenty of body, resist wear, and offer strong color and luster retention. Unfortunately, they are not as durable as nylon and olefin. Currently, many polyester carpets are made from recycled PET (polyester) from plastic soda bottles and containers. Polyester carpets run about $1 less per square yard than comparable nylon products.
Acrylic
Although you won't likely find a 100% acrylic carpet, these fibers are blended with other fibers such as wool because they approximate the look and feel of natural wool but are less expensive. Acrylic fibers are resistant to moisture, mildew, and fading.
Wool
The most luxurious fiber is natural wool. It is soft, durable, offers generous bulk, and comes in many colors. From an ecological viewpoint, it is a particularly responsible choice because it comes from a sustainable resource. Unfortunately, wool is also considerably more expensive than synthetics. For wool, you're likely to pay from $40 to $100 per square yard—or more.
t's often easy to replace an inexpensive lockset with one that is a similar type. If possible, take the old lockset with you when you're buying a new one, or bring the following information:
* Type of lock--cylindrical, tubular, or rim
* Diameter of the cylinder and latch holes or the size of the rim
* Distance from the edge of the door to the center of the doorknob
* Thickness of the door
* Direction the door opens--inward or outward
Replacing a lockset is an easy job. Remove the knob by releasing the shank button with a small screwdriver as shown at below left. Then remove the mounting plate (see below right). Unscrew and remove the latch assembly. Then just reverse the process to reassemble with a new lockset.
A relatively easy repair for a door that doesn't lock securely enough is to install a new deadbolt. To do this, you drill two new holes in the door--one in the face for the lock's body and one in the edge to accommodate the bolt.
Deadbolts are packaged with templates that show the exact placement of holes to ensure a perfect fit.
Single-piece molded fiberglass, synthetic marble, or laminate showers are relatively inexpensive, quick and simple to install, easy to clean, and watertight. Most prefabricated shower stalls are formed with benches, integral shelves, and grab bars. Shapes include square, rectangular, and corner configurations.
One-piece showers are common in new construction because they are very quick to install and don’t have seams that could leak in the future. Unfortunately, these generally don’t work in a remodel unless one or more walls are being removed because they are too large to fit through a doorway.
For most remodels, prefabricated showers with wall panels that are assembled on site work better. With these, wall panels fit over a molded shower base and are attached to a waterproofed wall.
With the exception of one-piece showers, all showers begin with a base, sometimes called a receptor, or a "pan," which can be purchased ready-made or built from scratch. Construction demands skill because the pan must be waterproofed and sloped precisely to the drain, which must be set at the right height for perfect drainage. Prefabricated bases—in molded plastic, cast polymer, solid-surface composite, or poured masonry—come in various sizes and shapes and can be used with wall panels or custom surrounds. For more about this, see Custom Shower Planning & Buying Guide.
If you’re remodeling, be sure to select a prefabricated shower pan that has a drain opening that matches the existing location of your drainpipe.
from : Hometips.com
The term "high performance" is usually reserved for sports cars and Grateful Dead concerts, but homes can also have a high-performance side, and like a race car, it all revolves around results.
Most homes in this category are built from the ground up, which allows for system-engineered design and quality-controlled construction.
The key to a high-performance home is that all the major systems within the home work together to create a comfortable and healthy living environment that operates on an elevated level of energy efficiency and building durability
One aspect of this is that the HVAC system is sized specifically for the home and that register supply and return vents are placed in a room to most effectively heat and cool that space.
Every aspect of the home's energy use is taken into account. It's a pretty heady goal, but with today's advances in building science, design, and technology, high-performance homes are being built at a rapid rate across the country.
Common elements of a high-performance home include:
* An airtight, moisture-managed, and well-insulated building
* Manifold plumbing systems
* Geo-thermal heat pumps
* Programmable thermostats
* Climate control "zones" throughout the house
* Performance testing at each stage of the building process
Unfortunately, turning your existing home into a super-charged high-performance home can be difficult. Imagine trying to get a 1977 Chevy Nova up to the performance specs of a 2007 Corvette Z06. It may be possible, but it's not really practical. However, there are plenty of lessons to be learned from high-performance homes like performing a blower-door test to uncover major air leaks in the building envelope or making sure your ducts are cleaned and sealed to improve the HVAC system performance.
If you are looking to really conserve energy, a high-performance home may be your ticket, but low power bills are only one aspect of green.
Visiting your local hardware store prior to doing your own plumbing can be a confusing experience. Which type of pipe should you choose? You'll find that the answer isn't as clear as it may have been in the past--when there were much fewer plumbing pipe choices. Here are the main types of plumbing supplies you will use:
PVC Pipe - Polyvinyl Chloride
PVC pipe has been a very big deal in the plumbing industry in the last few decades, because it is lighter and easier to work with than traditional galvanized steel pipe. You will mainly be using PVC pipe for drain or waste pipes, or stacks (those pipes you often see sticking up out of the roofline), and not as supply pipes. PVC pipe is easy to install, and requires little more than a hacksaw, miter box, and solvents which essentially "glue" the pipe together. Diameters are clearly marked on the white surface of the pipe. If not easy to read, diameters can be determined with a sizing tool such as Pi-Piper.
Rigid Copper Pipe
This is your water supply pipe. Rigid copper is easily cut with a hacksaw or Skilsaw, or with a special copper tube cutter. Connection is a different matter, as it requires a practiced hand to solder copper pipe together (advice: buy extra copper pipe to practice on). Rigid copper pipe is great for water supply because it resists corroding, and does not carry the health risks that PVC has.
ABS Pipe
ABS pipe looks very much like PVC pipe, except it is black. ABS is basically the "older version" of PVC, and is often not allowed anymore by plumbing codes. Like PVC, ABS pipe is used for drain and vent pipes. If working with ABS, the best advice is to replace with PVC.
Flexible Copper Tubing
Flexible copper is used for short runs. You have probably seen it leading up to your water heater, or for cold water supply in tight spots. Flexible copper tubes can be cut with ease with a hacksaw, and bent to fit around corners. Because it does not stand up well against extreme temperatures, flexible copper is not recommended for exterior use.
Galvanized Iron Pipe
Galvanized iron pipe is the pipe of popular imagination: it is what we think of when we think about plumbing pipe. It is made of galvanized steel, with each end of the pipe threaded. Individual pipes are screwed into each other with connecting joints. While extremely strong, galvanized pipe is rarely used for new home construction, and is not recommended for the home renovator.
Installing the type of water-treatment device that utilizes filter cartridges under the sink and delivers clean water through a sink-top spout is a relatively easy do-it-yourself project. Doing this job involves simply mounting the filter unit in the cabinet and connecting plastic tubing to your existing cold water pipes using special saddle valves.
Several different types of water treatment devices are sold, including dual-cartridge devices like the one shown below and reverse-osmosis systems that work basically the same way but also utilize an undersink storage tank that holds clean water and is connected to the sink’s trap because it discharges wastewater. Neither type requires electrical power.
Filters inside cartridge-based water treatment devices must be changed periodically—typically twice a year. Changes in the odor, taste, and/or flow of the water are sure signs that the filter cartridges need to be replaced.
1.
Start by mounting the dispenser. Most are designed to fit in the extra hole in a sink top, as shown, but if this hole is already occupied, you’ll have to drill another in the sink or countertop. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for the location and size of the hole. Drill only into stainless-steel or porcelain cast-iron sinks; if you have an all-porcelain sink, drill for the dispenser through the countertop.
2.
Tap into the existing cold water supply line via a saddle valve, as shown. To install a saddle valve, first turn off the water supply and then open the faucet to drain the line. Following the manufacturer’s directions, drill a small hole in the supply line. Turn the handle on the valve to expose the lance that’s designed to puncture the pipe, and position the valve over the pipe so that the lance fits in the hole. Attach the back plate of the valve and tighten the nuts to lock it in place, and then screw in the lance.
3.
Position the cartridge filtration unit roughly between the cold water line and the dispenser. Be sure to leave the specified clearance between the system and the cabinet bottom to allow for cartridge replacement. Secure the device to the cabinet back or wall with the screws provided.
4.
To hook up the device, start by cutting a length of plastic tubing to reach between the saddle valve and the system. Make it short enough not to kink, but long enough to allow for installing a new compression fitting (the connector shown at the end of the tubing) later, if needed. Press the tubing into the compression fitting and thread it onto the saddle valve; tighten with an adjustable wrench.
5.
Insert the opposite end of the tubing into another compression fitting and thread it onto the inlet port of the filtration unit. Tighten the nut with your hand, and then make another turn or turn and a half with an adjustable wrench.
6.
Finally, cut a piece of tubing to run from the outlet port of the system to the water dispenser. Insert compression fittings on both ends and thread the nuts onto the dispenser and the system. Turn on the water supply and open the water dispenser. Let the water run for about five minutes to flush out any carbon particles or air pockets. Most manufacturers recommend allowing the water to run for about 20 seconds before using.
from: Hometips.com
