From Kris Jensen-Van Heste, for About.com
There are two instances in which you'd find yourself running wire in open, or unfinished, walls: Either it's a permanently unfinished space, such as a garage or shed, or you're running wire in preparation for finishing the room as a living space and the wire won't be exposed. The two scenarios call for two very different methods.
While running wiring can be done by a skilled do-it-yourselfer, tying the wiring into the breaker box and to the outlets and switches is a job best left to a qualified electrician.
Running Wire in a Permanently Unfinished Space
Before you proceed, be certain you won't change your mind later and decide to finish the space, because you'll have to redo the wiring. This method requires considerably more wire than what you'd use on a space that will be finished because you're essentially following the path of the wood framing up, down and across. This keeps the wire from spanning open spaces, where it could be snagged and pulled by yard tools or sports equipment in the garage, for example.
What You'll Need
* Both municipal and national codes require insulated wire, and most commonly used is 12- or 14-gauge nonmetallic sheathed cable known as Romex.
* Plastic cable straps, also known as plastic staples.
* Hammer
How to Run the Wire
1. Plan your wiring layout. First, decide where you want electrical boxes (for outlets and switches). Attach the boxes, whether metal or plastic, to the studs with nails.
2. Begin working at the box closest to your electrical breaker box. Run the wire through the box and out the side hole in the direction of the next box. Leave enough wire to reach the breaker box, plus at least another foot, for later connection.
3. Secure the cable to the very center of the wider face of the studs within 12 inches of each box and at least every 4 feet with plastic cable straps, also called plastic staples. Be extremely careful not to nail through the wire itself. Wherever the cable doesn't snug up to the wood, secure it with an additional strap. All wires must be at minimum 1-1/4 inches from the front and back edges of all studs and joists.
4. At the top of the stud, route the wire up to the header (the piece of wood that runs across the top of the studs) and across its face.
5. To move horizontally, bring the wire up to the face of the header atop the stud, then staple it as you carry it across until you reach the stud that bears the next box. Choose the shortest route possible, of course, to the next box, running the wire against wood. Keep the wire as protected as possible - and as visible and accessible as possible.
6. Continue stapling the wire until you reach the next box.
7. Snake the wire into the box and out through the front about 10 to 12 inches, then double back , leaving about 20 to 24 inches total, and run the wire out of the box toward the next one, keeping the wire securely stapled to the wood.
8. Travel back up to the header and on to your next box.
9. To cross the ceiling, travel with the joists, not across them, securing to the wider, vertical side of the joist. You don't want wire without wood to support it.
Running Wire in a Space to be Finished
It takes less wire and less effort to run wire on a wall that's going to be finished. The major difference in this case is that it's perfectly fine to span the space between the studs with the wire, since it will be enclosed and won't be in danger of being snagged or pulled.
To run wire across the studs:
1. With a 1-inch spade bit mounted on a right-angle power drill or standard drill with a right-angle attachment, bore a hole through the wide face of the stud. The hole needs to be at least 1-1/4 inches from the front edge of the stud to meet code requirements and to prevent accidental contact when the drywall goes up. There are no rules regarding how high you place the hole and wiring - the best route is the one that leads directly to the next box.
2. Following the steps above, install the electrical boxes. Instead of following the perimeter of the framing, just run the wire through each hole, spanning the space between the studs.
3. If you're going to insulate the wall before installing drywall, be sure to leave enough slack in the wiring between the studs so there's no tension when the insulation is put in. Insulation is commonly sliced so the wiring is encased in it, but check with your insulation's manufacturer for their recommendations regarding installation around the wiring.
Tips
* It's imperative that you contact your municipality and ask for its specific codes regarding electrical wiring. There may be differences from national code, and you don't want unpleasant surprises later.
* Find out if permits are required.
* Metal nail guard plates can be placed over the edges of studs to protect the drilled hole and wiring inside it.
By Lee Wallender, About.com
Q: “I live in a condo building outside a busy intersection. Our bedroom has windows on two walls with double sliding panes which are quite insulated. Our bed's headboard rests against the opposite wall, however we are still woken up each night by the sound of truck engines. I've done some browsing, but I can't seem to find a product that will solve my noise pollution problem. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!”
A: Many factors influence the level of sound within a building, so first let's deal with some of the easier fixes that may not necessarily have anything to do with home renovation or windows.
Our sound quality expert reminds us that the entire room transmits sounds. So, everything from the studs to the drywall to the windows to the floor to ceiling ask as a giant "eardrum" to pick up and transmits any external sounds. That said, one simple fix is simply to make sure that your headboard is not resting against the wall. Breaking the connection between the wall and headboard will go a long ways towards quieting down your bedroom.
Next factor: does your bedroom have proper sound dampening qualities? By this, we mean carpeting, thick draperies (as opposed to the Venetian blinds), a sufficient amount of furniture, padding under the carpet, and so on. And while almost no one likes it anymore, the classic cottage cheese or popcorn style ceiling is also marvelous at reducing sounds.
Perhaps carpeting and drapes and popcorn ceilings do not fit with your aesthetic? There is something called Acousti-Coat Sound Reduction Paint, which is very expensive but claims to have certain sound absorbing fillers and resins that will help quiet down the sound in your room. Be careful, though: Acousti-Coat is about three times more expensive than regular interior latex paint, and I am dubious about its effectiveness.
Assuming that your condo association will agree to changes in your windows, you can upgrade to a triple paned window. Many homeowners install triple paned windows as much for their sound-deflecting qualities as for any potential energy savings. The good thing about triple paned windows is that you can duplicate the same style of window that you currently have without running afoul of your condo association.
Another thing to look at, which many homeowners rarely think about, is the type of window frame that you have. Think of it: doesn't metal transmit sound better than plastic? If you have metal framed windows, you are better off with vinyl, fiberglass, or wood framed windows, at least as far as controlling sound goes.
Another add-on that the condo association would probably not object to is to install a storm window. Storm windows are easy to put on, easy to take off, very cheap, and not very noticeable. The ultimate solution would be shutters. Real wood shutters would guarantee quieter nights, but would understandably be a hard sell to the other residents in the association.
By Lee Wallender, About.com
Do it yourself...or not? You could literally spend months pondering whether to save money by doing the project yourself or...to break into the piggybank and hire a pro. Not an easy decision.
Let's break it down into a few basic questions. After you're done, check out my chart of "do it yourself or hire a pro" recommendations for various types of projects.
How Motivated Are You to Do it Yourself?
Have an uncontrollable desire to knock down interior walls? To renovate an entire kitchen? Or do you find that painting the baby's room one Sunday is quite enough to scratch that renovating itch? It's important to gauge how much you want to take on yourself before doing it.
Recommendation: Take on some small projects first to make sure you really want to "do it yourself" before tackling larger projects.
How Motivated Are You to Have Strangers in Your House?
They're in your house to help you, but in the process they turn your house upside-down. And managing work crews in your house is a taxing proposition. Do not underestimate the imposition of four workmen hanging drywall in your house for a solid week.
Recommendation: Decide how muchlack of control in your house you can tolerate before inviting workers in.
What is Your Skill Level?
You have the power to take on any renovation project. A person who barely knows how to plug in a blender is capable of learning how to re-wire the entire kitchen. However, remember that your kitchen is your classroom. While you learn to distinguish ground wires from neutral, the kitchen is a disaster and you're washing sinks with a garden hose on the lawn.
Recommendation: Make certain you're at the proper skill level (or can learn quickly enough) to bring the project to a swift conclusion.
Do You Have the Time?
Tiling the bathroom is one thing. Tiling the bathroom at 9:30pm after a full day of conference calls is another thing. And don't you also have a life to lead?
Recommendation: Know in advance how much time you want to put into a project--before starting it.
How Does Your Funding Look?
Money, or lack of it, motivates the do-it-yourselfer. While there is a certain satisfaction in replacing your front door yourself, chances are Bill Gates hires someone else to do this for him.
Recommendation: If you have the money, and the project looks infinitely nasty, consider hiring a pro.
Organizing A Whole House Remodel
By Lee Wallender, About.com
The process of renovation can be mind-bending. Just when you've decided to refinish the floors before painting the walls--you realize it makes more sense to do walls before floors. Or is it the other way around? Do you begin to see the problems? When renovating a house, there is an infinite number of ways to skin a cat. But following is one suggested whole house renovation timeline.
1. Design and Planning
Whether it's a sketch on a cocktail napkin or full-blown architectural plans, some type of planning and design always comes first.
* Ensure that you have funding for your renovation.
* Draw up a simple "yes/no" list of do-it-yourself projects and projects you want professionals to do.
* Look for contractors and subcontractors for those jobs you do not want to do yourself.
* Apply for permits.
2. Roof, Foundation, Siding, Windows
Protect your future renovation work by making certain the house won't collapse on you (foundation, major structural problems) and that it will remain dry (roof, siding, windows).
* Secure the foundation.
* Make major structural repairs to areas such as weakened walls, joists, and carrying beams.
* Repair or replace roof.
* Replace seriously damaged windows that may threaten future remodeling work. If not seriously damaged, leave it for later in the process.
* If the siding is so damaged that it will allow water infiltration, repair or replace the siding. If not seriously damaged, leave it for later in the process.
3. Demolition
Depending on the scale of your renovations and the condition of the house, demolition might be the first step.
* Rent a large container for waste.
* Carefully demolish all or some of the areas of the house that will be renovated. Demolish as much as possible if you will not be living in the house.
* Exercise caution when demolishing surfaces coated with lead-based paint.
4. Structural Carpentry
At this time, call in the carpenters for major carpentry projects. Things like:
* Moving walls.
* Constructing new walls.
* Significantly enlarging window openings.
* Adding beams to support a greater weight upstairs.
* Punching in new doors (or removing existing doors).
* Adding new construction windows.
5. HVAC Ductwork, Electrical, and Plumbing
With the walls and ceiling open, it's time for the HVAC company to install ductwork for central heating and air conditioning. Also with the walls accessible, run new electrical and plumbing systems. Electrical and plumbing inspectors will visit at this time, too.
6. Insulation
Last thing to do with the walls open: install fiberglass batt insulation in the walls and attic. Insulation goes fast, so give your drywaller a call and let him know he's next up.
7. Drywall
* A second inspection from the electrical inspector (and perhaps the plumbing inspector) will give you the go-ahead to close up the walls.
* Drywallers hang sheets of drywall, apply drywall compound, and let the compound dry. After drying, they sand it smooth. Sometimes, they will repeat the process until they achieve a seamless surface.
8. Flooring
Installing the flooring later in the renovation process saves your flooring surface from significant damage.
9. Windows
Install replacement windows.
10. Fine Carpentry
Here's where you introduce carpentry that doesn't involve structural issues. Install baseboards, molding, trim around windows and doors, built-in elements (bookcases, breakfast nooks, etc.).
11. Interior Painting, Wallpaper, and Other Surface Finishes
Painting interior walls, hanging wallpaper, painting molding and trim, staining and sealing trim: all of these detail-oriented surface finishes should be the last items you do indoors.
12. Siding, Gutters
With the house mostly finished, it's safe to put on siding. You don't want to do this earlier (unless absolutely necessary) because doors and windows may get punched out, ruining the siding.
13. Major Auxiliary Building
Last, do major auxiliary building projects like:
* Additions
* Sunrooms
* Swimming pools
Large building projects like additions should come last. My view is that you do this last so you don't deplete all of your money and energy on projects not related to renovating the house itself. However, an alternate view is that you may want to build an addition very early in the process so that you don't ruin any work you do in the main part of the house.
More Home Renovation Articles
By Lee Wallender, About.com
Why Do You Want to Remodel Your Kitchen?
Kitchen renovation is a hot topic. This tutorial assumes a top-to-bottom remodel. But if you're interested in something less, you'll find a ton of great information about all aspects of kitchen renovation. Ask yourself:
1. What Are My Needs and Desires?
Is your kitchen a disaster zone where you can't even manage to boil an egg? Or do you just want to freshen the place up with new applicances, countertops, floors, and cabinets?
2. Is It Worth Putting Myself Through This?
Do you want work crews in your house for extended periods? Do you want to spend money and put yourself through this turmoil? While one of the more expensive home renovation projects, kitchen remodels retain their value well should you decide to sell your house.
3. Deep-Down Renovation or Surface-Level?
Be honest. Is this a $85,000 full-scale kitchen remodel or a less ambitious surface-level kitchen renovation? No shame in either choice.
4. How Can I Reduce the Cost of Remodeling?
Think about this now before you get too involved in the project. From doing it yourself to limiting your need for contractors, there are tons of ways to save money.
This is the fun part. When you design your kitchen, you get to exercise your creative muscle while your house is still clean and in one piece.
For ease of movement, plan your kitchen workflow around the classic kitchen triangle.
While you have an almost infinite range of possibilities, you may want to utilize one of the five basic kitchen design plans, such as:
* The One-Wall Design
* The Corridor Design
* The L-Shape Design
* The Double-L Design
* The U-Shape Design
How to Design Your Kitchen
* Kitchen Design Software
Inexpensive computer design software helps you with the difficult task of space-planning.
* Book-Based Design Packages
Available at bookstores, these kits have cardboard punch-outs representing cabinets and appliances. Placing punch-outs on a kitchen grid helps you realistically view your available space.
* Kitchen Designers
Kitchen designers at home improvement companies or at kitchen design stores typically design your kitchen free of charge. However, they will steer you to their own vendors and to their own work crews. Independent designers will have the most freedom and may give you the best product because they have less restrictions. However, they will charge you either by the hour or on a percentage basis.
You're got great ideas. But how to turn these ideas into reality?
* Hiring a Contractor.
Find a licensed contractor who deals extensively with residential kitchen remodeling. Commissions based on the price of the project range from 15%-25%.
* Doing It Yourself.
Renovating the kitchen by yourself, you spend no money on labor charges but you may slow down your project as you learn skills necessary to remodeling.
* Acting as Your Own Contractor.
A tempting option. You hire carpenters, electricians, plumbers, and other sub-contractors yourself and save the contractor's high commission. But this puts a lot of work on your shoulders.
You should apply for permits now. Permits must be obtained from different agencies. Your city or county may administer the electrical, plumbing, and building permits. Your water company may also need to permit any work relating to water supply and drainage. If a contractor is handling the renovation, he will obtain your permits. If you are doing it yourself, start by calling your local city or county permitting agency.
Demolition
Something has to go. Something as small as those nasty laminated counters or as major as that load-bearing wall blocking the view of the living room. Kitchen materials may contain hazardous materials such as lead-based paint and asbestos, both of which require special handling. After that, you need to haul away the waste material and dispose of it. Waste stations may not accept hazardous materials, so you should first check up with them about acceptable waste.
Building and Repairing
Depending on your new kitchen's configuration, you may be taking on major construction tasks. Are you adding or replacing windows? Or removing windows to increase cabinet space? How about taking down walls to open up the kitchen to the rest of the house? Even minor kitchen remodeling may need joists strengthened to support heavier appliances or built-ins such as a kitchen island.
By Lee Wallender, About.com
When you are undertaking huge home remodeling projects, it is almost impossible to avoid dealing with wall moving, demolition, and construction. Before you do anything with your walls, understand a few things about wall framing.
”Walls are Made of Two-by-Fours, Right?
The main type of lumber for walls is the 2x4, also called a stud. These studs are mostly arranged vertically.
“I Know that Walls are Either Load-Bearing or Non Load-Bearing…”
Yes. And there are no exceptions to this rule. A load-bearing wall supports the weight of the house above it; the non load bearing wall supports only its own weight.
"How Far Apart are the Studs?
Non load-bearing walls can have vertical studs spaced as far apart as 24 inches on center. After all, why not? They are only supporting the weight of drywall and some electrical and plumbing work within. Load-bearing walls are quite a big deal, and codes take them seriously. This (mainly) predictable spacing lets you easily find studs when trying to hang a shelf. Generally, load bearing walls have studs spaced at 16 inches on center. Also, headers are shorter.
”Headers? What Do Headers Do?”
Headers are those horizontal members that run across the top of doors, windows, entryways, etc. Headers are important because they support weight that ordinarily would have been supported by vertical studs in that space.
The reason you should care about headers is that they give you air and light. The wider the header above the window, the larger the window. Thus, more air and light. Also, within the house: a sturdy header above the door between kitchen and living room can help tie the two rooms together.
”Can You Remove a Non Load Bearing Wall without Taking Extra Precautions?
As for structural precautions: generally not. However, you need to realize that you must be careful in case live electrical wires or plumbing run thorough. Non load bearing walls are sometimes called partition walls. Over time, previous homeowners may have foolishly added features to the house which use the partition walls for support.
Even though they should not have done this, you need to be aware of this and not assume that all partition walls are not bearing weight or providing some kind of sideways strength. This is the point where I issue a word of caution: before removing any wall, consult a licensed contractor or structural engineer. Even the pricey fee for a structural engineer is far less than the cost of repairing a collapsed roof.
By Lee Wallender, About.com
One trick you can use when re-hanging a is to configure the trim around the door.
First a word of explanation. If you have never worked with old doors within an old house, you may have the reasonable assumption that a door which you remove can be replaced in the same spot on a one-for-one basis. After all, the door has been hanging there for 70 years. How hard can it be to re-hang?
Why Remove a Door?
There are many reasons you may need to remove a door. If you are re-finishing and painting your doors, about the only way to do it is to remove the door and put it up on sawhorses. Sanding floors also entails removing doors and re-hanging them.
It's not so bad if the door is hung on the same hinges, and you have done nothing more than remove the pins from the hinges. Also, if you have basically left the door frame structure untouched, the re-hanging process should not be so difficult.
"Uh, Oh - The Door Doesn't Fit"
But the very minute that you start doing anything more than a simple repainting job is when it gets difficult. I have spent countless hours trying to get doors to fit into door frames. Sometimes, it is virtually impossible, because the door frames get "out of square" when the house's foundation subsides (more correctly, "out of rectangle"). So, it's not your fault at all if the door doesn't fit well.
So what you want to do is knock off all of the trim around the door, hang the door, and then build trim that follows the configuration of the door. Just remember that you need clearance. The door should clear the finish flooring by about 1/2". Keep in mind that this is the finish flooring, not the substrate. So, if it's just substrate (or sub-floor) right now, and you hang the door with a 1/2" clearance, it will drag once the finish flooring is installed.
Not a Liner, Not a Replacement: Why You Might Want to Refinish Your Tub
By Lee Wallender, About.com
Got a yucky bathtub? Visit a home improvement store and you note that a new bathtub is inexpensive--less than $200. How hard can this be to replace? But add in the cost of a contractor, demolition, removal, landfill fees, tilers, and a plumber, and the total cost of the job has ballooned.
You can install an acrylic liner, but it is still costly and it only covers up your bathroom problems. Compared to all that, refinishing your tub looks pretty good.
The Truth: Refinishing Bathtub is Painting
Refinishing is a hire-the-pro project. DIY is great for many things, but it is virtually impossible to do a decent bathtub refinishing job by yourself. Porcelain, fiberglass, and cast-iron tubs can all be refinished.
Bathtub Stays in Your House--No Removal Needed
One huge selling point of bathtub refinishing is that the bathtub does not need to be--and should not be--removed and taken to a shop. Refinishing is done on-site. Most refinishing technicians are highly aware of the fact that they are in a private residence, so they take many precautions to minimize overspray and other mess.
Quick Overview of Tub Refinishing Process
After masking and dropcloths are set up, the tub is repaired (nicks and holes filled), primed, sealed, and painted with a highly durable, glossy top-coat of any color you choose.
Surprised that it is paint? The two biggest bathtub refinishing companies I spoke to like to call the substance a "coating," rather than paint. Look at it however you want, but rid your mind of the idea that bathtub refinishing is a duplication of the tub's original dip-coat. In some cases, you can send a valuable cast iron tub off-site for a new dip-coat--but this is not what we refer to as bathtub refinishing.
The Two Big Names: Miracle Method and Permaglaze
What brings down refinishing--sometimes called reglazing--costs is the fact that competition for refinishing business is fierce. Searching for refinishing companies, you will find:
* Miracle Method, with about 120 U.S. locations.
* Permaglaze, with 50-60 U.S. locations.
* Countless independent, local companies whose quality may be higher or lower than the national franchises.
Details of the Professional Bathtub Refinishing Process
The tub reglazing process is different between the two national tub refinishing franchises, Miracle Method or Permaglaze, as well as the local, non-franchised companies. However, there is some common ground:
1. Clean bathtub and remove caulking.
2. Mask around the bath tub and cover areas not to be refinished.
3. Remove fixtures and overflow cover.
4. Set up ventilation fan to vent overspray and odor outside.
5. Lightly sand entire bathtub.
6. Depending on the service you choose, the tub may also be etched with acid to help the coatings adhere.
7. Vacuum bathtub.
8. Fill chipped, scratched, or worn areas, then sand smooth. If there is extensive damage, the restorer may charge nominal extra fees for this.
9. Put down drop-cloths and covers over cabinets, sinks, fixtures, toilet, etc.
10. Spray-paint up to 3 coats of a primer; let dry.
11. Between 3-4 layers of top coat mixture are spray-painted.
12. Miracle Method comes back a few days later for a final buffing. Permaglaze does not do this because they say that their process does not lead to imperfections that would necessitate buffing.
Tub is ready to use within 48 hours. Your new coat is durable but not as durable as the original coating. As a result, do not clean with any abrasive cleaners such as Comet.
Do-it-yourself bathtub refinishing is possible, but not recommended. You employ essentially the same materials as the professionals, but you don't use the professional-level spray-gun.
Instead, you use a brush or small roller. Armorpoxy is the most prominent company selling do-it-yourself brush-on kits. They offer a quart of epoxy with hardener, latex gloves, steel wool, brush, cleaning solution, cleaner/thinner, and safety goggles. It comes in white but can be tinted (tint not included).
It's less expensive than other methods, but I still do not consider it a cheap alternative. Also, I'm a bit wary of brushing or rolling on bathtub paint. There's simply no way you can get a nice, smooth glossy coat with a roller or brush.
Summary--Bathtub Refinishing Options
* New Tub If Remodeling. If you're already ripping up your bathroom for other repairs, go ahead and put in a new tub. It's your cheapest option.
* Don't Spray. Unless you're a highly experienced painter (work in an auto body shop perhaps?), leave the spraying to the pros.
* Competition is Good. There are so many companies competing for your bathtub refinishing business, you can most likely swing a good deal.
* Rollers/brushes Don't Work. Don't cheap out with the brush or roll-on method.
